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Routes in Rainy Wednesday Tower

Agitator T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Balcony, The TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Birnam Wood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cerebration T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Claude Glass T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cliff's Coitus T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Overhang T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eave of Destruction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
False Alarm Jam T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Foreplay T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friendly Banter T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Green Bulge TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hare-Brained Scheme T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hirsute TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jungle VIP TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Laundry Chute T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mezzanine, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Miss Piggy's Pleasure T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
New Light Waves TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Orgasm T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orgasm Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Out of the Woods T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Resolution TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Resurrection TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Balcony T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Second Coming TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,881 total, 39/month
Shared By: Paul Huebner on Aug 19, 2007
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

A well protected route that's exposed near the top. Climb up the crack in the corner, exit left and up to a platform. Climb right onto "lemon squeezer" block then up into recess beneath the right side of the overhang (popular pigeon roost). Step left and up into the notch in the overhang, and then continue to the top of the tower. I've broken the climb up into 2 pitches sometimes (like on Jungle Jim) by setting a belay beneath the overhang. It eliminates rope drag and gives a second that's just beginning to follow trad to see what a belay is all.

Location

The start is in the inside corner on the south west side of the Tower below the big ceiling.

Escape off of the back (northwest side) of the tower and head up to the East Bluff Trail.

Protection

Standard rack.
John Wanner  
 
Definitely one of the best 5.4's you'll ever do. For even more fun, do the 5.7 variation. At the top of the large detached flake (called the 'lemon squeezer' in the description), step right on thin face holds with a lot of exposure and traverse about 6-8 feet around the corner to a good stance at the base of a groove. Climb through the groove to the top. The last cruxy section up the groove is a bit difficult to protect, and double rope technique is useful to minimize rope drag. And don't forget to place a good cam on the traverse to help protect your second. This was the first 5.7 lead I did at DL, and has always been exciting, no matter how often I've done it. The route is listed in Olie Swartling's DL guidebook as a variation, but I haven't seen it referred to here. It would be difficult to set up on a TR, but is an interesting lead. Oct 14, 2016
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.4
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.4
i agree... best 5.4 in the state! perfect jams to pull through an exposed roof! Jul 15, 2011
Captain Z
Vancouver, BC
  5.6
Captain Z   Vancouver, BC
  5.6
I only led the first half pitch before it got too dark. Then we escaped from the back side of the tower. Fist time climb in DL, rock is awful.
Most parts are well protected, except the traverse below the first overhang. The route has some loosen rocks. Jul 4, 2011
Josh Knapp
East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.4
Josh Knapp   East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.4
Everyone should do this! Just great! Jun 19, 2011
NickinCO
colorado
  5.5
NickinCO   colorado
  5.5
There's 3 large loose blocks under the roof that rock if you touch them. Jun 4, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
 
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
 
My bad, Tony. But thanks for weathering the storm with me and almost losing your hands to the freeze trying to get my cam out of the crack. Apr 19, 2011
Tony Brengosz
  5.4
Tony Brengosz  
  5.4
Woah, Andy, don't insult me. I left my shoes at home, not in the car. Apr 19, 2011
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
This is a great climb to introduce someone to the concept of multi-pitch! Apr 19, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
 
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
 
Best 5.4 to do in a November rain storm and your partner has forgotten his climbing shoes in the car and you get a .5 buried deep in some God awful crack and you stop half way to pitch it out because your hands are freezing and then you end up just bailing out through the gully on the left. Apr 18, 2011
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Best 5.4 in Wisconsin. Jul 13, 2008