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Routes in Rainy Wednesday Tower

Agitator T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Balcony, The TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Birnam Wood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cerebration T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Claude Glass T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cliff's Coitus T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Overhang T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eave of Destruction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
False Alarm Jam T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Foreplay T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friendly Banter T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Green Bulge TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hare-Brained Scheme T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hirsute TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jungle VIP TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Laundry Chute T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mezzanine, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Miss Piggy's Pleasure T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
New Light Waves TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Orgasm T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orgasm Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Out of the Woods T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Resolution TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Resurrection TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Balcony T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Second Coming TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad
FA: first lead Rich Bechler, Dale Moir, Steve Sangdahl
Page Views: 2,868 total, 16/month
Shared By: Steve Sangdahl on Mar 23, 2003
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

Yet another classic DL lead. Climb to the right of Orgasm. I seem to remember pretty good gear and a fixed pin (pin is gone now). Good luck and pull down, cut loose and throw up !@##

Protection

Usual DL stuff.
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.11b/c
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.11b/c
Because you need a ballsack the size of Zeus' to lead this thing... and if you've got that, silly severity ratings don't apply to you. Aug 9, 2012
I tried to OS this one day, terrifying. It's probably "X"! Aug 9, 2012
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
  5.11b R
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
  5.11b R
Anyone know why this climb has never been "R" rated? "edit" Whelp, I'm going to be honest and give it an "R" as I recall placing three pieces and only one of them kept you off the deck while doing the crux. Aug 9, 2012
NickinCO
colorado
 
NickinCO   colorado
 
Can't believe people lead this. Didn't have a problem on it on top rope until the crux half way up and I couldn't figure out the feet. Will try again. Jun 4, 2011
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
seth, i second that. crux takes purple TCU. (just make sure you place it in the higher, deeper thin crack). also, take a red and orange cam for the horizontal below the crux. it's also nice to equalize them with a sliding x.

fun climb, with a fun (and easy) runout down low and nice and technical moves at the crux. do it! May 24, 2010
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.11b
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.11b
Amazing climbing. Good rests. I'm not sure what sharp crimps you are speaking of Sean. I don't remember a single one that hurt, especially in the beginning. The crux is certainly a key sequence. Super technical feet, not like a gym climb (cause the gym is a mock of outside)...just typical Devil's Lake climbing. Jun 12, 2009
Sean Luster  
 
I really enjoyed this route on TR, though it wore the hell out of my fingers. Really there are 2 main problems
1) the early couple of moves, which aren't particularly difficult but because of the sharpness of the crimp are pretty unpleasent
2) the very thin crack climb at the crux of the route - this felt like a gym climb to me, from the very precise sequence that I needed to follow (maybe a stronger climber can improvise but I needed to get every move right) to the very scant, but very important, footholds.

Once you get past the crux it's suddenly a 5.7 climb. I'd really recommend this route to anyone climbing in this range. Way over my head for trad so I can't comment on gear placement but it looked pretty sketchy Sep 17, 2007
It was a purple Metolious that saved my a$$ (especially since the piece below it got yanked out) when I took a fall on my first attempt. Stuck straight into a pin scar I think.... Nov 16, 2006
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
I think the crux piece is a blue metolious tcu stuck straight in perpendicular to the wall. Nov 15, 2006