Type: Trad
FA: first lead Rich Bechler, Dale Moir, Steve Sangdahl
Page Views: 3,045 total · 16/month
Shared By: Steve Sangdahl on Mar 23, 2003
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

Yet another classic DL lead. Climb to the right of Orgasm. I seem to remember pretty good gear and a fixed pin (pin is gone now). Good luck and pull down, cut loose and throw up !@##

Protection

Usual DL stuff.

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
I think the crux piece is a blue metolious tcu stuck straight in perpendicular to the wall. Nov 15, 2006
It was a purple Metolious that saved my a$$ (especially since the piece below it got yanked out) when I took a fall on my first attempt. Stuck straight into a pin scar I think.... Nov 16, 2006
Sean Luster  
 
I really enjoyed this route on TR, though it wore the hell out of my fingers. Really there are 2 main problems
1) the early couple of moves, which aren't particularly difficult but because of the sharpness of the crimp are pretty unpleasent
2) the very thin crack climb at the crux of the route - this felt like a gym climb to me, from the very precise sequence that I needed to follow (maybe a stronger climber can improvise but I needed to get every move right) to the very scant, but very important, footholds.

Once you get past the crux it's suddenly a 5.7 climb. I'd really recommend this route to anyone climbing in this range. Way over my head for trad so I can't comment on gear placement but it looked pretty sketchy Sep 17, 2007
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.11b
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.11b
Amazing climbing. Good rests. I'm not sure what sharp crimps you are speaking of Sean. I don't remember a single one that hurt, especially in the beginning. The crux is certainly a key sequence. Super technical feet, not like a gym climb (cause the gym is a mock of outside)...just typical Devil's Lake climbing. Jun 12, 2009
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
seth, i second that. crux takes purple TCU. (just make sure you place it in the higher, deeper thin crack). also, take a red and orange cam for the horizontal below the crux. it's also nice to equalize them with a sliding x.

fun climb, with a fun (and easy) runout down low and nice and technical moves at the crux. do it! May 24, 2010
NickinCO
colorado
 
NickinCO   colorado
 
Can't believe people lead this. Didn't have a problem on it on top rope until the crux half way up and I couldn't figure out the feet. Will try again. Jun 4, 2011
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
  5.11b R
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
  5.11b R
Anyone know why this climb has never been "R" rated? "edit" Whelp, I'm going to be honest and give it an "R" as I recall placing three pieces and only one of them kept you off the deck while doing the crux. Aug 9, 2012
I tried to OS this one day, terrifying. It's probably "X"! Aug 9, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11b/c
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.11b/c
Because you need a ballsack the size of Zeus' to lead this thing... and if you've got that, silly severity ratings don't apply to you. Aug 9, 2012