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Miss Piggy's Pleasure
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2.1 from 14
votes
Routes in 12: Rainy Wednesday Tower
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Agitator T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Balcony, The TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Birnam Wood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cerebration T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Claude Glass T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cliff's Coitus T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Double Overhang T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Eave of Destruction T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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False Alarm Jam T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Foreplay T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Friendly Banter T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Green Bulge TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hare-Brained Scheme T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hirsute TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jungle VIP TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Laundry Chute T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mezzanine, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Miss Piggy's Pleasure T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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New Light Waves TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Orgasm T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Orgasm Direct T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Out of the Woods T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Outhouse, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Resolution TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Resurrection TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Second Balcony T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Second Coming TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Urve's Folly T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | ???? |
| Page Views: | 1,260 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Burton Lindquist on Nov 12, 2012 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
At the start the climber can take the face either side of the corner to gain the ledges at 20 foot mark or climb the corner strictly. The climbing is bit harder on the corner strict. Above the 20 ft ledge the story is the same but staying near the central rib is much more fun and sporty. At about the 3/4 mark the climber is drawn onto the face left on broken but steep rock then back over to the steep arete on the right to gain the final left angling crack to finish.
Location
Climbs the corner mostly between the routes The Balcony to the left and Green Bulge to the right.
Protection
Pro is non-existent at the start on the face right of the corner and on the corner itself. There is thin crack pro to the left side of the face left if that way is taken. Above the 20ft ledge there is assorted sketchy pro on the right face (small wires and cams... make sure to use long slings as you will be climbing left of all this soon). On the rib at 1/2 point there is good small wires and Ballnut options and then on the steep broken rock above there are nice larger horizontal options for cams plus small wires in incipient cracks, etc....
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