Type: TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,330 total · 7/month
Shared By: Steve Sangdahl on Mar 23, 2003
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

near green bulge lies this gem. i remember killer moves and fuk-nes. i dont think this has been led ....yet.

Protection

t.r. 0r ??

Photos

Kevin Fons
5.12b
Kevin Fons  
5.12b
This is the classic do it once and thats good enough for me climb. It messed my finger up for months. The climbing leading up to the crux is rather interesting though and probably worth doing if the crux hadn't beet me up so bad. Apr 30, 2005
Tradiban
  5.12b R
Tradiban  
  5.12b R
Eh...got on it and got shut down. The gear looks to be acceptable though. Might be much better when the temps cool down. Got over the roof and got my right hand in a mono-stack, sounds right to anyone? Jun 11, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.12b
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.12b
That mono sounds about right. I think I used it as an intermediate. I also remember a knee-bar in the corner. I put a knee pad on for it (don't judge me).

I also checked out the gear on this. It's all there. Jun 12, 2009
Tradiban
  5.12b R
Tradiban  
  5.12b R
Knee bar? Just smearing? The gear looked doable but not really "all there", I will have to take another look when it cools down a bit. Jun 22, 2009
Tradiban
  5.12b R
Tradiban  
  5.12b R
If you climb to the notch and use holds a bit left, then right back onto the face this thing is 11a, if you go direct then it's 12b, maybe harder I couldn't get it. Oct 14, 2009
Alex A
  5.12b/c
Alex A  
  5.12b/c
There 2 ways to do this both about the same grade, 5.12b/c from the notch, knee bar, straight up or move right a slight bit, do some weird side pulls, and you do avoad the holds left of the notch, Jul 16, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.12b
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.12b
I wish I could give this 2.5 stars, it's really good! Thanks for the beta Trad Nanny. Dec 11, 2011
Tradiban
  5.12b R
Tradiban  
  5.12b R
Led this today. Crux piece is a C3 in a weird upward pointing orientation, not sure if it would have taken a fall. Remo and I used totally different beta for the crux. Complicated for such a short climb. Mar 16, 2012
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
Nice lead man! Mar 17, 2012