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Routes in Rainy Wednesday Tower

Agitator T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Balcony, The TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Birnam Wood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cerebration T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Claude Glass T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cliff's Coitus T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Overhang T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eave of Destruction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
False Alarm Jam T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Foreplay T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friendly Banter T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Green Bulge TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hare-Brained Scheme T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hirsute TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jungle VIP TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Laundry Chute T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mezzanine, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Miss Piggy's Pleasure T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
New Light Waves TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Orgasm T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orgasm Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Out of the Woods T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Resolution TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Resurrection TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Balcony T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Second Coming TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,622 total, 36/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 25, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


96 Opinions

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Description

Orgasm is in the Bedroom Amphitheater west of Rainy Wednesday Tower. Start at the inside corner below the sizeable roof. Climb up the corner on 5.6 terrain. Under the roof, move to the wall on the right (facing west) and smear your feet up as high as you can, then reach for a left hand undercling in a shoebox sized notch. Once past the roof continue up the face to the top.

Protection

Small to medium pro, some longer slings for the roof.
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.9-
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.9-
Hey Ted, the direct is just the face to the right of orgasm with the left arete being off. As for the roof, if I remember correctly, it's completely smooth on the underside and there's now way someone is climbing the underside of that. :) Mar 29, 2016
Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
Does anyone know if it's possible to go straight over that massive roof, and if so, what it would be rated? I thought it might be the direct, but it looks like that stays to the right... Mar 28, 2016
Sometimes at DL bomber gear can be very hidden, actually it's alot of times. The rock forces some creative thinking for sure.

Safety rating is pretty subjective and perhaps some one climbing at their limit on this would find it R rated. The definition of "R" is probably murky as well. As with any DL lead the gear is tricky and the ground is close. Sep 29, 2011
Bryan Keller
Madison, WI
  5.8 R
Bryan Keller   Madison, WI
  5.8 R
Thanks for the gear beta, I guess I'll have to hunt a little harder next time I'm up there. Sep 27, 2011
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.9
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.9
As soon as you pull through the roof and establish on the face you are able to reach down and place a bomber nut near foot level. The second "shitty" (#3 bd) nut was placed a few moves higher. The route protects just fine , the second nut is only to prevent a "above last pro fall". Good cam placements are available just after the face crux. Sep 27, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
Bryan, that's the nut that almost everybody who leads this route gets in. I don't think it's deserving of an R rating. Just ask Ryan Strong... he whipped on that piece! Thatta boy, Strong! Sep 26, 2011
Bryan Keller
Madison, WI
  5.8 R
Bryan Keller   Madison, WI
  5.8 R
I had a hard time finding anywhere to put protection once I got out from underneath the roof. The cracks are thin and shallow and taper outward. I placed a nut that was iffy and then topped out. I would say it's 'R' because of the top face (unless I missed an obvious bomb-proof placement). Sep 25, 2011
NickinCO
colorado
  5.8+ PG13
NickinCO   colorado
  5.8+ PG13
top roped it today without issue, I definitely thought the crux was right after the roof. Awesome climb, will lead it next time I'm on it. I gave it a PG13 rating for the first 20' of the route that was pretty runout unless you cheat over and place gear on foreplay. Jun 4, 2011
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.9
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.9
led this climb last weekend...wasnt sure how pro would be but the i was able to sow the roof up with 3 pieces and after the roof you get to test your skill placing gear on the fly!! ended up whipping on a shitty nut placement but it held...2 moves from the onsight! Sep 7, 2010
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.9
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.9
Oh ya...When you start clipping the first piece...I'm gonna pull you off the wall! Then as you lay on the ground with your broken bones, writhing in pain, I'll send with the ease of a Jedi. Jun 12, 2009
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.8+
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.8+
Super classic climb. The roof was tons of fun. I'm totally gonna lead this before John because I'm awesome. Jun 12, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.9
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.9
The pro seems pretty good when I was checking it out. Great climb! The roof is so amazing. I'll gear up for the lead soon. Jun 12, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.8
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.8
Despite appearances, this is a pretty good lead. It reminds me a bit of the Gunks, what with passing those big roofs. Just take your time and get good gear after the roof, as the crux tends to sneak up on ya. Apr 24, 2007