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Routes in Rainy Wednesday Tower

Agitator T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Balcony, The TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Birnam Wood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cerebration T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Claude Glass T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cliff's Coitus T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Overhang T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eave of Destruction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
False Alarm Jam T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Foreplay T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friendly Banter T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Green Bulge TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hare-Brained Scheme T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hirsute TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jungle VIP TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Laundry Chute T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mezzanine, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Miss Piggy's Pleasure T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
New Light Waves TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Orgasm T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orgasm Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Out of the Woods T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Resolution TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Resurrection TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Balcony T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Second Coming TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,837 total, 20/month
Shared By: James Schroeder on May 6, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


92 Opinions

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Description:

Foreplay starts a few feet to the left of Orgasm. Look for the obvious off-fingers/small-hands crack on a slightly less-than-vertical wall, flanked by positive holds. The route ascends this this crack and face holds (particularly those face holds to the right near or on Cliff's Coitus) to a ledge with a pine tree about 20-25 feet off the deck. Passing the tree on the right, it ascends some blocky climbing to another ledge. At this ledge it is possible to make a traverse up-and-to-the-right into a v-slot. After arriving in the v-slot it is possible to finish up-and-right to the ledge above Orgasm (where the easier anchor setup is), or go direct up overhanging blocky holds (depositing the climber on a ledge with few choices for anchoring).

Foreplay can be protected extremely well, and would make an excellent first-lead for a competent toproper ready to take the next step. This is all-the-more true given that it has several opportunities (the ledges) to rest and fully recover (or even possibly escape to easier terrain) as well as the opportunity to sling what seems to be a solid tree for protection at the first ledge. First-time leaders would be well-advised to use the right-hand finish.

Protection:

Nuts (offsets particularly useful)
48" (120cm) sling (for the tree)
Camalots .5-2
Metolius TCUs Blue-Red
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
All you James. Mar 23, 2014
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.5
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.5
This thing needs a better description, it's a classic that deserves to be on the ticklist of every visiting leader. Mar 15, 2014
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.5
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.5
This is a fantastic little lead! Great gear and a variety of features. Apr 25, 2013
Ta-Chi Wang  
 
This 5.6 is perhaps the easiest 5.6 I've ever done at DL. It's even easier than another 5.5, Pine Tree D at the Railway. But I think it really doesn't matter; insofar as the rating goes, does much of those 'moderate,' 5.9-below leading routes at DL really matter anyway? It's a great route by any measure. May 24, 2009
Andy Bissell
  5.5
Andy Bissell  
  5.5
James/Jay,

In retrospect, I concur, the potential fall above the tree does not make the route harder. This was my first lead 2 weekends ago(not counting the 5.2 SW corner of Leaning Tower which I lead 20 mins before this route) and it was really a great time. I plan to lead Full Stop when I'm at the Lake next and really look for the differences in the crux moves. I've never been up Push-Mi Pull-U, False Perspective or Brinton's (this route is always plugged). I've done Full Stop a few times and I can think of a couple moves that are harder than Foreplay. You guys are right, it is 5.5, I just can't help but remember the first time I thruchted my way to the top of this route and thought it was super hard. The exposure on the last two moves is not to be missed! Apr 25, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.5
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.5
Foreplay is 5.5 compared to other similar routes at DL. I think it is much easier than The Bone. Apr 24, 2007
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.5
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.5
Andy,

While your statement about the moves past the tree providing a headcheck is certainly true, it does not have an effect on the difficulty rating. By difficulty this route is significantly easier than Brinton's, Push-Mi Pull-U, False Perspective, and Full Stop all of which are probably benchmark 5.6 at DL (however if someone wanted to call Brinton's 5.7 I might not argue with them). Mar 27, 2007
Andy Bissell
  5.5
Andy Bissell  
  5.5
I think the route deserves the 5.6 rating, while the pro is stellar, there are a few areas where a fall would not be such a good thing. I'm thinking of the 2-4 moves above the tree in the crack. Falling through this section, while you're on solid pro, you pretty much guarantee that you're going to hit the tree in some way shape or form. For the novice leader ( I include myself in this ) its a bit of a head check, and makes the route that much more enjoyable. Mar 27, 2007
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.5
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.5
5.5 by Devil's Lake standards. Compared to Brinton's this is cake, not to mention it's Disneyland safe. Still's it's a classic and not to be missed. Jan 17, 2007
Excellent Climb. Definately makes a good lead with solid pro. The lower crux can be nicely protected with a small/medium stopper. The last few moves feel slightly exposed but are on great holds. -Amos Jul 26, 2004
Cory Bartholomew
Ă–stersund, Sweden
Cory Bartholomew   Ă–stersund, Sweden
Awesome beginner's lead route. Gobbles up pro. Definitely softer rating than alot of the 5.6's in the neighborhood Dec 4, 2002
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
5.5
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
5.5


This goes a lot easier than False Alarm Jam. Oct 26, 2002
I agree with the three star rating this site gave this climb. Some of the guide books rate it at only one star. Many of the moves require technique, and I find that enjoyable. Also, there are lots of places to set pro. These two things are why I think this rout defiantly has a three star climb Aug 12, 2002
Jeff H  
This is a nice lead with very solid pro. Jun 14, 2002