Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,610 total · 22/month
Shared By: James Schroeder on May 6, 2002
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Description:

Foreplay starts a few feet to the left of Orgasm. Look for the obvious off-fingers/small-hands crack on a slightly less-than-vertical wall, flanked by positive holds. The route ascends this this crack and face holds (particularly those face holds to the right near or on Cliff's Coitus) to a ledge with a pine tree about 20-25 feet off the deck. Passing the tree on the right, it ascends some blocky climbing to another ledge. At this ledge it is possible to make a traverse up-and-to-the-right into a v-slot. After arriving in the v-slot it is possible to finish up-and-right to the ledge above Orgasm (where the easier anchor setup is), or go direct up overhanging blocky holds (depositing the climber on a ledge with few choices for anchoring).

Foreplay can be protected extremely well, and would make an excellent first-lead for a competent toproper ready to take the next step. This is all-the-more true given that it has several opportunities (the ledges) to rest and fully recover (or even possibly escape to easier terrain) as well as the opportunity to sling what seems to be a solid tree for protection at the first ledge. First-time leaders would be well-advised to use the right-hand finish.

Protection:

Nuts (offsets particularly useful)
48" (120cm) sling (for the tree)
Camalots .5-2
Metolius TCUs Blue-Red

Photos