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Routes in Motherlode Rock - East Face

Belleville TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Bart S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blasting Cap S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cap Gun T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Dust in the Wind T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fire in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fools Gold T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Gloves S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golden Nugget S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lodestone S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Miner Forty-Niner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Miner's Milk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Motherlode S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Out of Our Mines S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Phantom Ore Cart S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Psychedelic Sluice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantytown Swing S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wildrose S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Chris Miller & Jake Colella, May 2000
Page Views: 1,551 total · 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 14, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A boulder problem start (crux) on thin edges with poor feet is encountered before the first bolt, after which the climbing is no harder than 5.10; one more bolt leads to a ledge. Make some cool stemming moves off the ledge and finish up an arete to anchors.

A little squeezed down low, but the climbing is fairly good and higher the routes on either side diverge. It's possible to combine the lower half of Black Bart with the upper portion of this route to get a fun 5.10 route. You can also combine the lower half of this route with the upper half of Black Bart to get a 5.11 route with two cruxes.

Location

Up a black streak between Golden Nugget and Black Bart. The first bolt on the route is black and the second bolt is tan, which may help to identify this route.

Protection

5 bolts, chain anchor

Photos

Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
The first section is thin below the first bolt, but seems easier to the left (encroaching on Golden Nugget?). Better holds at the second bolt, and a swing move puts you over the edge and in the open book. Solid 5.8 the rest of the way up. Sep 7, 2009
steple
  5.11c
steple  
  5.11c
Instead of gaining the ledge, you can stay left on the face, getting close to the neighboring route. Then mantle and get to a third bolt. Slightly runout, but more thin flakes to crimp on. Jul 15, 2011
Ian McG
  5.10c
Ian McG  
  5.10c
Feels like it is contrived if you want it to go anywhere near 11b. If you climb using the holds that follow along just left bolt line it doesn't feel any harder than a mid-10, but then you are likely off route even though the bolts are well within reach. Jun 11, 2014

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