Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Motherlode Rock - East Face

Belleville TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Bart S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blasting Cap S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cap Gun T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Dust in the Wind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fire in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fools Gold T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Gloves S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golden Nugget S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lodestone S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Motherlode S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Out of Our Mines S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psychedelic Sluice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantytown Swing S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wildrose S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Chris Miller and Ernesto Ramirez, 1991
Page Views: 2,435 total, 19/month
Shared By: Rick Shull on Jun 28, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


79 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The "Swing" begins by scrambling up and on top of the perched block between Psychedelic Sluice and Out of Our Mines. From the top of the block, clip a bolt and continue up past 4 more bolts to a 2 bolt chain anchor. Fun moves up plates and friction up top.

Location

This is the bolted face just right of Psychedelic Sluice.

Protection

5 bolts and a 2 bolt chain anchor.
tinyonion
  5.6
tinyonion  
  5.6
I agree that the direct start is very fun. I plugged a #3 C4 in for fun but you really don't need it and I doubt that it would stop you from decking. The moves to gain the ledge are not more than 5.6+ maybe 5.7 but I doubt it. Good fun though and a good route for people getting used to outside lead. Though the 5.3 around the corner next to wildrose is probably a better intro if it's a first lead. Oct 2, 2011
Jon Leicht
  5.6
Jon Leicht  
  5.6
The direct layback start was much more fun, and not more than a half grade harder. Jun 14, 2008
C Miller
CA
  5.6
C Miller   CA  
  5.6
The route can be started either way (from the block or the ground), but the direct is better imo. Perhaps a little tougher (?), and a little more strenuous, but gear (2-2.5") could be placed if desired/needed on the direct start.

Orignally done with three bolts (the 2nd, 4th and 5th) and no anchor; the route was later retro-bolted to make it a fun lead for 5.6 climbers. Jul 2, 2007
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
If I understand the description properly, I'd have to say it's much more fun to start this route direct, up the crack on the left side of the block. Fun climb, great lead for the beginners. Jun 28, 2007