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Routes in Motherlode Rock - East Face

Belleville TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Bart S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blasting Cap S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cap Gun T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Dust in the Wind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fire in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fools Gold T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Gloves S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golden Nugget S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lodestone S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Motherlode S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Out of Our Mines S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Psychedelic Sluice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantytown Swing S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wildrose S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Chris Miller, May 2000
Page Views: 1,078 total · 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 27, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

This popular link-up combines the lower portion of Black Bart with the upper portion of Motherlode and avoids the hard sections of both those routes.

Climb up and left along tricky thin edges past three bolts to a ledge, clip a bolt on the left wall of a shallow dihedral and then stem your way up the short corner to a low-angled arete passing two more bolts to anchors.

Location [Suggest Change]

Combines the lower portion of Black Bart with the upper portion of Motherlode.

Protection [Suggest Change]

6 bolts, chain anchors

Photos

I went up initially going for Black Bart but after getting thoroughly confused by the slab finished left and bagged a red point. Climbing to the ledge is really fun but the arete is sort of dull and puts you in a bit of no man's land at the top. I clipped on Golden Nugget's anchors - rapping off to clean the route was a little tricky but worked fine enough. Jul 30, 2013
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
  5.10+
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
  5.10+
I found the beginning of this route to go harder than 10b for sure, the slab and pulling the lip goes around 10a but the top eases significantly down to 8 or 9 on the arete.

I ended up clipping the anchor for Black Bart on account of a guided group of thirty setting up permanent residence on the anchor the route was intended to go to. I find it kind of ridiculous that 4 routes are supposed to share a singular anchor point but I suppose its just the shape of the rock that lends itself to that. Not that big a deal.

Anyway, going to the right anchor was quite delicate and off route which would have made for an interesting fall, but when my buddy did it he just went up over the top then walked to it which puts you sitting right at it. Sep 13, 2016

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