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Routes in Motherlode Rock - East Face

Belleville TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Bart S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blasting Cap S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cap Gun T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Dust in the Wind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fire in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fools Gold T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Gloves S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golden Nugget S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lodestone S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Motherlode S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Out of Our Mines S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psychedelic Sluice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantytown Swing S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wildrose S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Chris Miller & Pete Paredes, June 2002
Page Views: 1,042 total, 8/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 20, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start up a left-leaning ramp to reach the first bolt, which protects improbable moves (crux) to the second bolt and the end of the difficulties. Wander up a very easy, low-angled slab past two bolts to reach a perched block where vertical, featured face (5.9) past three more bolts leads to anchors atop the block.

Long and varied, with fun moves and some nice exposure up high, which makes this a recommended route for the wall.

Location

You'll find this interesting route 25' right of Black Bart and just right of Dust in the Wind, a right-facing corner system.

Protection

7 bolts, chain anchors

Photos

Lance Ranzer
  5.10d PG13
Lance Ranzer  
  5.10d PG13
Ok so clearly the 1st bolt is ridiculous to get too. Hands and feet broke off. Making this a high 14+ move...
So either play it safe and head way left up the crack and traverse right to the 2nd bolt and clip in.
OR go on the ramp and hold a small side pull with Left hand and step on a penny size hold with right foot, clip draw and french free it till you find the positive left hand just above the draw about 1.5ft. then continue the climb up and make sure to bring a long runner or the 4th bolt before entering roof.

P.s. The roof at the top is AWESOME - tad short but so glad to have done it. Jun 27, 2016
Jeff Edge
  5.11a/b
Jeff Edge  
  5.11a/b
Started with my left hand on the good sidepull to the left of the first bolt, and right food on the 2nd foot-edge over from the left, so my head was pretty much at or a little to the left of the first bolt when I stepped on. Then you traverse right, tricky! Just commit to the holds and you'll be fine. Kinda fun once you're doing it.

Probably not too much harder than 11b, probably no easier than 11a. Thought it was on par with Highgrader (maybe a little harder?), and harder than Long Arm albeit in a very different style. More similar to Mad Season, just a much, much shorter crux. Nov 29, 2014
steple  
And I was really doubting my skills when I was unable to get past the first bolt... the missing hold makes me feel much better.

Also I was wondering how far you are supposed to go up on the ramp? Is the original start left of the first bolt? Thanks. Jul 18, 2011
Broke a hold directly above the first bolt on 05/30/2011.
Probably closer to 11d than 10c before getting to the second bolt now. The rest of the climb remains unchanged. Jun 4, 2011
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Originally done without the top bolt, which was later added to make it a more reasonable lead. Jul 2, 2007
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
A variation of this route can be done be climbing the crack 20' right of the intended route (the start to 'Miner 49er'). A bit trivial due to the easy slab above before reaching the block. The block above is clearly the highlight.....nice exposure. Good hero shot if the light is right ;) Apr 18, 2007