Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Chris Miller, 1989
Page Views: 1,678 total · 16/month
Shared By: Marc C on Jun 27, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

Start up a short ramp to a headwall. Pull the moves over the headwall (crux) and enjoy the easy climbing up a right facing corner crack. Head left at the top to the anchors of Shantytown Swing.

Location

Right of Shantytown Swing at the obvious ramp.

Protection

Gear to 2.5"

Photos

Jeff Edge
  5.6
Jeff Edge  
  5.6
If Psychedelic Sluice is 5.6, the start of this is probably 5.6 too. But you could also probably call them both 5.5, either way they seem about the same difficulty to me at the "crux." Nov 29, 2014
Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.6
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.6
For a short or small-handed climber, the crux would be much harder than 5.4. The low "crux" is harder than anything on Sluice, but protects well. Great mellow crack after this crux still forces you to jam most of the way. Aug 3, 2015
I found the start at the top of the headwall remarkably difficult. I'm 5'7", and had only climbed one crack before (psychedelic sluice), so the [beta warning] thumb down hand-jam I had to make with sketchy foot smears seemed a lot harder than 5.4. The rest of the climb was really easy - could choose to stem or jam. May 30, 2018
Basil Newburn
San Mateo, CA
  5.5
Basil Newburn   San Mateo, CA
  5.5
There's a chain around a sizable thread at the top of the route if the Shantytown/Sluice anchor has someone on it. A couple cracks are available nearby to back up the chain for a 3-piece anchor; I liked offset nuts better than cams in them. Chain seemed good enough for rapping off.

Also, the bottom of the main crack seemed like it would take a big cam (Camalot #4?) but I left mine on the ground. Would have been nice to get a big piece in to protect the headwall moves. Aug 18, 2018