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Routes in Motherlode Rock - East Face

Belleville TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Bart S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blasting Cap S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cap Gun T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Dust in the Wind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fire in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fools Gold T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Gloves S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golden Nugget S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lodestone S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Motherlode S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Out of Our Mines S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psychedelic Sluice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantytown Swing S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wildrose S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Chris Miller, 1989
Page Views: 1,484 total, 16/month
Shared By: Marc C on Jun 27, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start up a short ramp to a headwall. Pull the moves over the headwall (crux) and enjoy the easy climbing up a right facing corner crack. Head left at the top to the anchors of Shantytown Swing.

Location

Right of Shantytown Swing at the obvious ramp.

Protection

Gear to 2.5"

Photos

Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.6
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.6
For a short or small-handed climber, the crux would be much harder than 5.4. The low "crux" is harder than anything on Sluice, but protects well. Great mellow crack after this crux still forces you to jam most of the way. Aug 3, 2015
Jeff Edge
  5.6
Jeff Edge  
  5.6
If Psychedelic Sluice is 5.6, the start of this is probably 5.6 too. But you could also probably call them both 5.5, either way they seem about the same difficulty to me at the "crux." Nov 29, 2014