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Routes in Motherlode Rock - East Face

Belleville TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Bart S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blasting Cap S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cap Gun T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Dust in the Wind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fire in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fools Gold T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Gloves S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golden Nugget S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lodestone S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Motherlode S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Out of Our Mines S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psychedelic Sluice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantytown Swing S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wildrose S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Chris Miller & Rick Shull, 1989
Page Views: 6,168 total, 49/month
Shared By: Rick Shull on Jun 28, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A fun, easy to protect crack that begins with the crux right off the ground. Getting up to the first gear placement may be a touch more difficult for those under 5'10"

Location

You will find this crack between Black Bart and Shantytown Swing.

Protection

Gear to 2" with a small nut or two for the thinner middle section. Bolted anchor shared with Shantytown Swing to the right.
davidhousky
Lake Forest, CA
  5.9
davidhousky   Lake Forest, CA
  5.9
As others have said, the start is 5.9. Jul 3, 2017
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.6
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.6
Start seems like 5.9. Nov 29, 2016
Kat S
Long Beach, CA
 
Kat S   Long Beach, CA
 
Great starter crack with killer foot jams. Jul 16, 2014
MattMyers
  5.5
MattMyers  
  5.5
High quality hand crack for its grade. It felt pretty soft for 5.6 trad, I highly recommend this climb. May 29, 2012
Rob Selter
running springs Ca
 
Rob Selter   running springs Ca
 
Really fun route my 9 year old Daughter loved it. Would be a great first trad lead. May 1, 2012
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
Indira lead and I followed. I find the initial start to get on the crack is the crux for me. I had to start from left side and then move over to the right. Great last climb of the day. Aug 16, 2011
Simon H
Oakland, CA
 
Simon H   Oakland, CA
 
Certainly worth carrying your rack to the crag for. Would be a superb first trad lead with easy placements, good stances, secure movement, and a bolted anchor. Likes cams .5-2.5" Apr 25, 2011
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
A real nice hand crack that eats gear pretty well. Also a good TR when you already have the rope on Shantytown Swing. Aug 7, 2008