Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Motherlode Rock - East Face

Belleville TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Bart S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blasting Cap S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cap Gun T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Dust in the Wind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fire in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fools Gold T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Gloves S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golden Nugget S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lodestone S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Motherlode S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Out of Our Mines S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psychedelic Sluice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantytown Swing S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wildrose S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Rick Shull & Chris Miller, 1989
Page Views: 2,438 total, 19/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 13, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


75 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The climb begins with a short, vertical section with side pulls and edges before gaining a high-angle, somewhat gritty slab reminiscent of Joshua Tree. The crux comes at the third bolt and involves a balancy high-step to better holds. The anchor is located just below a large dike to prevent wear on ropes when lowering, but for the full experience continue to the top to another set of anchors.

This was one of the first routes done on the wall, and was originally done with a #3 RP (just before the present 3rd bolt), two bolts (the third and fourth) and no anchors; it was later retrobolted to make it more popular and fun.

Location

This is the left-most climb on the east face and lies 15' around and right from Wildrose and just left of Fools Gold, a juggy crack system.

Protection

4 bolts, chain anchor
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10b
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10b
Any of you Stoney top ropers out there who fancy to trying a 5.10 lead this would work well for you - it's very similar to say Pink Drips, but with more friction. Oct 9, 2011
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
This climb is fun! Not ready to lead it as the first bolt is pretty high up for me. Climbed it on top rope and it was fun. The first bolt clipping is definitely dicey. I found the last 2 bolts up top got edgy and balancy. FUN!! Aug 4, 2011
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
Pumpy start through the first bolt, that eases off on the upper slab section. I thought the crux was at the 4th bolt and involves stepping high with small edge hand holds. Sep 7, 2009