Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Rick Shull & Chris Miller, 1989
Page Views: 2,648 total · 19/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 13, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


86 Opinions

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Description

The climb begins with a short, vertical section with side pulls and edges before gaining a high-angle, somewhat gritty slab reminiscent of Joshua Tree. The crux comes at the third bolt and involves a balancy high-step to better holds.

 Anchors are located just below a large dike to prevent wear on ropes when lowering, but for the full experience continue to the top to another set of anchors.

* This was one of the first routes done on the wall, and was originally done with a #3 RP (just before the present 3rd bolt), two bolts (the third and fourth) and no anchors; it was later retro-bolted to make it more popular and fun.

Location

This is the left-most climb on the east face and lies 15' around and right from Wildrose and just left of Fools Gold, a juggy crack system.

Protection

4 bolts, chain anchor
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
Pumpy start through the first bolt, that eases off on the upper slab section. I thought the crux was at the 4th bolt and involves stepping high with small edge hand holds. Sep 7, 2009
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
This climb is fun! Not ready to lead it as the first bolt is pretty high up for me. Climbed it on top rope and it was fun. The first bolt clipping is definitely dicey. I found the last 2 bolts up top got edgy and balancy. FUN!! Aug 4, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10b
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10b
Any of you Stoney top ropers out there who fancy to trying a 5.10 lead this would work well for you - it's very similar to say Pink Drips, but with more friction. Oct 9, 2011