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Routes in Motherlode Rock - East Face

Belleville TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Bart S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blasting Cap S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cap Gun T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Dust in the Wind T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fire in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fools Gold T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Gloves S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golden Nugget S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lodestone S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Miner Forty-Niner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Miner's Milk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Motherlode S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Out of Our Mines S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Phantom Ore Cart S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Psychedelic Sluice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantytown Swing S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wildrose S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Chris Miller & Rick Shull, 1989
Page Views: 1,683 total · 12/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 14, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb a vertical, black face with edges up and left past three bolts to a ledge, then continue up the slab above past two more bolts to a difficult crux that's not especially fun. Once past the crux, one more bolt of easy climbing leads to the top.

It's possible on the upper portion to cut left into the corner and stem your way up as you reach right to clip the bolts - this keeps the grade at 5.10 and makes the route more enjoyable.

* This was one of the first routes on the wall and originally had four bolts (the 2nd, 3rd, 5th and 6th) and no anchors, but was later retro-bolted to make it a better protected - unfortunately the crux remains unappealing.

Location

Located just right of Motherlode and 10' left of Psychedelic Sluice, a low-angled, splitter hand crack.

Protection

6 bolts, chain anchor

Photos

Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
We TR'd this a couple seasons ago. Great vertical 5.10 crimps down low and blank slab up high. I thought the crux was passing the first bolt on the slab? (4th bolt) Jun 16, 2007
Tozankyaku  
 
I thought the crux is on the face between the 2 and 3 bolt the entire upper section is just a walk up friction climb maybe 5.10b tops. Sep 8, 2009

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