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Routes in Motherlode Rock - East Face

Belleville TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Bart S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blasting Cap S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cap Gun T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Dust in the Wind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fire in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fools Gold T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Gloves S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golden Nugget S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lodestone S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Motherlode S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Out of Our Mines S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Psychedelic Sluice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantytown Swing S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wildrose S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Description

The east face of Motherlode Rock is fairly long wall with a high concentration of climbs on the left side and only a few routes on the rest of the rock. Climbs here tend to be on the short side but feature excellent rock and protection. Morning sun and afternoon shade.

Recommended routes here include Wildrose (5.6), Golden Nugget (5.10a), Lodestone (5.10b) and Out of Our Mines (5.10d).

This area seems to be quite popular with groups of top-ropers, so be courteous as well as patient and enjoy the climbing.

Routes listed from left to right:

Blasting Cap (5.3)
Wildrose (5.6)
Fire in the Hole (5.10a)
Fools Gold (5.6)
Golden Nugget (5.10a)
Motherlode (5.11b)
Black Bart (5.11a)
Psychedelic Sluice (5.6)
Belleville (5.9+ TR)
Shantytown Swing (5.6)
Dust in the Wind (5.4)
Out of Our Mines (5.10d)
Miner Forty-Niner (5.8)

Getting There

Easily reached from the vicinty of The Ampitheatre (Claim Jumper Wall, Gunsmoke Wall or Thunderbird Wall) by a network of trails or from the northern parking area by another series of trails.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Motherlode Rock - East Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 39
Fools Gold
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 127
Psychedelic Sluice
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 93
Golden Nugget
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 77
Fire in the Hole
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 25
Lodestone
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 27
Black Bart
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Out of Our Mines
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 24
Motherlode
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fools Gold
 39
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Psychedelic Sluice
 127
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Golden Nugget
 93
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Fire in the Hole
 77
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lodestone
 25
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Black Bart
 27
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Out of Our Mines
 11
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Motherlode
 24
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Motherlode Rock - East Face »

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