Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Motherlode Rock - East Face

Belleville TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Bart S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blasting Cap S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cap Gun T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Dust in the Wind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fire in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fools Gold T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Gloves S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golden Nugget S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lodestone S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Motherlode S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Out of Our Mines S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psychedelic Sluice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantytown Swing S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wildrose S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Chris Miller & Lisa Guindon, May 1997
Page Views: 2,949 total, 23/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 13, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


81 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start up a smooth vertical face with tricky moves to gain a slabby, rounded arete which is followed to anchors atop the face. The excellent rock quality at the bottom gives way to slightly grainy face at the top, but the exposure and positioning on the arete are great.

Originally done as a solo it was later bolted to make a fun lead for beginning climbers.

Location

This is the right of two slab climbs on the narrow south face and it lies just right of Blasting Cap.

Protection

4 bolts, chain anchor
Road
Stanton
  5.7
Road   Stanton
  5.7
difficult bit seems to be the first section before the wall kicks back and the angle of the slab makes it much easier Aug 6, 2015
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.8
I started at the foot of the big hand rail. Done this way, one's first clip will require a bit of thought and makes the climb a bit more difficult. May 14, 2013
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
Fun lead climb. Great way to practice foot work on slabs. Fun route!~~ROCKY~~ Jul 16, 2011
Jon Leicht
  5.7
Jon Leicht  
  5.7
We did a variation of this route by starting on the face 7 feet right of the climb, gaining ground until we were able to transfer into the last 15 feet of Wild Rose. Starting about 10 feet left of fire in the hole. Does it have a name? It was a fun little problem. Jun 14, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
One of my favorite places to take new climbers as it seems to see little action. This and Blasting Cap are short but fun - jugs down low and Intro to Slab 101 after the first fifteen feet or so. Perhaps a little heady for a first lead but should definitely be considered after leading the .5 Jun 16, 2007