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Routes in Motherlode Rock - East Face

Belleville TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Bart S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blasting Cap S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cap Gun T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Dust in the Wind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fire in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fools Gold T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Gloves S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golden Nugget S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lodestone S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Motherlode S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Out of Our Mines S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psychedelic Sluice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantytown Swing S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wildrose S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Chris Miller & Rick Shull, 1989
Page Views: 2,768 total, 21/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 13, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Boudery moves on thin but positive edges start things off, and lead to a crux section moving past the 2nd bolt. Once past the crux, the holds increase in size and the angle kicks back to a slab for a short section before finishing on vertical jugs.

Great moves on excellent rock make this a popular climb on a popular wall. Orignally done with only two bolts (the second and third) and no anchors, it was later retrobolted which greatly boosted it's popularity.

Location

This, one of the first lines on the wall is located on the left side of the east face and is the second bolted route from the left; it lies about 15' right of Fire in the Hole.

Protection

5 bolts, chain anchor
Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.10a
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.10a
Seemed to me that if you blow the third bolt clip, you could deck. Be careful not to rush the clip. Aug 3, 2015
Ian McG
 
Ian McG  
 
Fun, and a bit sporty getting to the third bolt if breaking into the grade. Jun 11, 2014
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
This is my first 5.10 lead climb! Not a pretty lead, definitely a nice fun route! I almost "flew" as I got to the 3rd bolt. Managed to stick it though. The mental thought of how it felt run-out to me from 2nd to 3rd bolt is what freaked me out! I will definitely do this route again. Hopefully next time with more finesse to it. :) ~~ ROCKY~~ Jul 16, 2011
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
5.10a at the start and moving from bolt 2 to 3. I have to agree it felt like a 7/8 after that. Grab the jug/horn up and to the right of bolt 3 while clipping. Over the slab the feet are good, and there are solid edges on the last 10-15 feet to the anchors. Sep 7, 2009
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
I would have to rate this as sustained 5.9 for the first three bolts, but couldn't say any single move was harder.
I didn't see anything that would come close to being a "great horn to sling between the second and third bolt." Possibly something broke recently? Jul 12, 2009
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a
Agreed that this is 5.10a - the initial section is quite crimpy. There's a great horn to sling between the second and third bolts, if you're inclined to look for natural ways to protect yourself. Jul 3, 2009
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.10a
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.10a
I'll have to disagree with the previous comment seeing how there is only one tough .10a move after bolt #3. It's not sustained after that....perhaps 5.7/5.8 to the top. The opening moves may check in at 5.9.

Nice route though! May 19, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
This is a very fun and spicey lead for the grade. I think it is harder and more sustained than its neighbor, Fire in the Hole. Also a great warm-up for those getting on the 11's to the right (Motherload and Black Bart). Jun 16, 2007