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Routes in Motherlode Rock - East Face

Belleville TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Bart S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blasting Cap S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cap Gun T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Dust in the Wind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fire in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fools Gold T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Gloves S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golden Nugget S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lodestone S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Motherlode S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Out of Our Mines S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psychedelic Sluice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantytown Swing S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wildrose S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Rick Shull and Chris Miller, 1989
Page Views: 1,842 total · 16/month
Shared By: Dave Daly on Aug 26, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This often missed crack climb is actually fairly decent. Although the initial section below is a bit contrived, the upper moves on fairly steep rock make up for it. Enjoyable moves as the crack thins out near the top.

Location

Fools Gold is located 10' right of Fire In The Hole and also signatured by a block 15' up from the start. Tread lightly around this block!

Protection

Pro to 1". Small nuts or green Alien helpful in the thin section of the crack. Chained anchors shared with Golden Nugget.

Photos

Mae Rae
  5.5
Mae Rae  
  5.5
The climbing is OK, and this climb would be a good little exercise for a new trad leader since there is plenty of pro and easy stances to place it.

(Be careful about being too confident after leading it though - it's pretty easy for a 5.6) Aug 18, 2012
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
Easy, crack protected face/jug climbing. Maybe one optional handjamb thrown in. Small mastercams and nuts were helpful. Saw placements for .75 and 2 camalot also, if needed to sew it up.
Easy way to TR the adjacent 10s. May 6, 2012