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Motherlode

5.11b, Sport, 45 ft,  Avg: 2.2 from 28 votes
FA: Chris Miller & Jake Colella, May 2000
California > San Bernardino… > Big Bear Lake Area > Big Bear North > Holcomb Valley… > Central Pinnacles > Motherlode Rock > Motherlode Rock - E Face

Description

A boulder problem start (crux) on thin edges with poor feet is encountered before the first bolt, after which the climbing is no harder than 5.10; one more bolt leads to a ledge. Make some cool stemming moves off the ledge and finish up an arete to anchors.

A little squeezed down low, but the climbing is fairly good and higher the routes on either side diverge. It's possible to combine the lower half of Black Bart with the upper portion of this route to get a fun 5.10 route. You can also combine the lower half of this route with the upper half of Black Bart to get a 5.11 route with two cruxes.

Location

Up a black streak between Golden Nugget and Black Bart. The first bolt on the route is black and the second bolt is tan, which may help to identify this route.

Protection

5 bolts, chain anchor
(all bolts 1/2" SS)

* Bolts replaced 2019

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Motherlode (5.11b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
[Hide Photo] Motherlode (5.11b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Tom Donnely above the crux of Motherload.
[Hide Photo] Tom Donnely above the crux of Motherload.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
[Hide Comment] The first section is thin below the first bolt, but seems easier to the left (encroaching on Golden Nugget?). Better holds at the second bolt, and a swing move puts you over the edge and in the open book. Solid 5.8 the rest of the way up. Sep 7, 2009
steple
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Instead of gaining the ledge, you can stay left on the face, getting close to the neighboring route. Then mantle and get to a third bolt. Slightly runout, but more thin flakes to crimp on. Jul 15, 2011
Ian McG
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Feels like it is contrived if you want it to go anywhere near 11b. If you climb using the holds that follow along just left bolt line it doesn't feel any harder than a mid-10, but then you are likely off route even though the bolts are well within reach. Jun 11, 2014