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Routes in 0 - Balanced Rock Wall

12 5.9 dihedral T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
13 5.4 Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
22 5.8 face climb T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
6.63 Smoots T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
AAHRG T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Basswood Chimney T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Beer and Booty T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Bifurcation T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Der Glotz TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Der Glotzenlinks T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Dilemma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fear and Trembling TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grandma's Staircase TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Indigo Billy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invitation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Invitation Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Law and Gospel T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Moondust T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Morning After T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Mr. Neutron TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Box T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Night Before TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
R.S.V.P. T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Pulpit T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spring Fever TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sunken Pillar T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Switch Cover Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unnamed Short route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Watermarks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watermarks Direct T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Watermarks Left Side TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,269 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 20, 2006
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Locate the thin, discontinuous crack to the right of Watermarks. This is Morning After, and in my opinion, the best route on the wall. The crux involves switching from laying back one side of the crack, to laying back the other. The movement on this climb, the tricky footwork, forces the climber into an elegant vertical dance.

Protection

The pro is actually pretty good, though it may be strenuous to place. Stoppers work wonders, as do small TCUs.

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Crux piece is a really nice small red camalot or equivalent. Nice line with some fun committer moves down low. Oct 29, 2006
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
You can make the start of this climb safer by climbing in to a point just above the bottom crux from the right near the corner arete (directly in front and above the tree) on good feet and hand holds, place an orange Metolius power cam or TCU then step back down and pull the crux from the bottom with nice pro. Otherwise its a boulder problem start just like Watermarks Direct. Aug 17, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10c/d PG13
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.10c/d PG13
It looks like the 1st piece of pro on this is a real solid looking slot about 15 feet up? Looks like a decent spot for a .5 or .4 camalot? I'd like to give this a go- looks real fun. Nov 2, 2010
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Andy.... your right and you should. It is the best route on the wall and especially if you lead it. The moves are very flowing and there is great gear, especially if you sneak in above the crux and place the bomber cam like I mention- then step back down and pull the crux. Nov 2, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10c/d PG13
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.10c/d PG13
Went for the onsight lead of this today. The cryptic nature of Devil's Lake Quartzite strikes again! Got into a good stance to place the 1st pro. Thankfully it's a bomber cam. Moved up a bit and placed a 000 C3 which seemed to be pretty good and as I was confidently moving through the crux moves on good crimps, my foot skated out stupidly and I fell. The cam held but only 1 1/2 lobes were engaged. Very thrilling. My belayer immediately lowered me. I recuperated my tender toes, fired the crux, ran it out a bit, placed good gear and romped to the finish. Very good route. Apr 12, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.10c
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.10c
Awesome lead, and well protected. Aug 11, 2011
Tradiban
  5.10b PG13
Tradiban  
  5.10b PG13
No way is this 10d, maybe 10b but it felt more like Watermarks Direct than Sometime Direct. Classic for 20ft and then jug hauls to the top. Aug 11, 2011
Terry Kieck
Baraboo
Terry Kieck   Baraboo
If you avoid reaching out right and contrive yourself to the crack it makes this route more 10d. But if you use everything within reach, it definately feels easier. Especially at the start. Classic lake route! Aug 12, 2011
Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
  5.10d
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
  5.10d
I agree with Terry. There are some burly full-extension moves if you head directly up the seam and avoid the right-side arete. Got the OS of this last week after climbing up and down the first 10 feet several times. Aug 17, 2011
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
I beleive the first lead of Morning After was by Tommy Deuchler. mid 1970,s I could be mistaken. This is a cool climb with what we considered to be good gear back in the late 70,s. peace and f-nes Steve S Aug 18, 2011

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