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Routes in 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall

12 5.9 dihedral T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
13 5.4 Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
22 5.8 face climb T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
6.63 Smoots T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
AAHRG T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Basswood Chimney T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Beer and Booty T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Bifurcation T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Der Glotz TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Der Glotzenlinks T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Dilemma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fear and Trembling TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grandma's Staircase TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Indigo Billy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invitation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Invitation Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Law and Gospel T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Moondust T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Morning After T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Mr. Neutron TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Box T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Night Before TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
R.S.V.P. T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Pulpit T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spring Fever TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sunken Pillar T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Switch Cover Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unnamed Short route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Watermarks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watermarks Direct T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Watermarks Left Side TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 170 total, 1/month
Shared By: tooTALLtim on May 14, 2008
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Locate a short, right facing corner with a chockstone at the top of the corner where it hits a ledge/alcove.

Climb the slab, pull past the chockstone (crux), stand up in the alcove and turn the corner on the left. Jaunt up the crack and top out.

Location

On the left side of the gully, next to the obvious right facing corner. Chockstone at the top of the corner.

Meet the Balanced Rock trail a few feet behind you to walk back down.

Protection

Maybe some small cams for the crack in the corner for the start, sling the chockstone, and the upper crack takes nuts well.

No anchors at the top, but TR options are available.

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Clean rock and at least three choices for the finish (see "False Dilemma"). More worthwhile than it looks. Jun 30, 2011
Peter Arndt  
 
Bifurcation is a very good climb for children. Short approach up Balance Rock Trail, plenty of holds, leans in slightly, and moderate exposure. The lower slabby face to the right is also a lot of fun for the kids to play around on.

If you don't want to set a toprope up high one could solo up to the chockstone for an easy TR.

My daughter Zoe (I'm proud to say) did great on it. May 15, 2008