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Routes in 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall

12 5.9 dihedral T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
13 5.4 Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
22 5.8 face climb T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
6.63 Smoots T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
AAHRG T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Basswood Chimney T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Beer and Booty T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Bifurcation T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Der Glotz TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Der Glotzenlinks T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Dilemma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fear and Trembling TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grandma's Staircase TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Indigo Billy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invitation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Invitation Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Law and Gospel T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Moondust T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Morning After T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Mr. Neutron TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Box T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Night Before TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
R.S.V.P. T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Pulpit T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spring Fever TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sunken Pillar T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Switch Cover Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unnamed Short route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Watermarks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watermarks Direct T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Watermarks Left Side TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: TR
FA: Unkown
Page Views: 1,455 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 27, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Der Glotz is a great route situated between Watermarks and Sunken Pillar. It follows a right-trending diagonal ledge up to some tough moves up along the left side of the zig-zag overhangs of Watermarks Left Side. To climb get up onto the diagonal ledge (ledge is about 2" wide) and use careful hands to work right until ledge runs out. At the top of the ledge reach up to a rectangular pocket. Pull up on this pocket and move your feet up so you can get your feet up into this pocket. From here there are 2-3 side-pull holds. Pull and lean right, and move up past zig-zag overhangs to easier terrain.

To set up the Top Rope for this climb your anchor should be directly below the Balanced Rock.

Protection

Top Rope

Photos

Jeff VS  
Have just a little time at the end of the day? "Der Glotz" is your go-to. John Markestad and I often take a 12 pack up to the Balanced Rock Wall after work. "Der Glotz" and "Beer & Booty" are the most interesting routes to play on with lots of variations to keep them interesting. Both climbs become VERY interesting after 4 beers. May 28, 2014
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
5.9 R
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
5.9 R
No where near bold enough to go ground-up like Rhoads, I lead this a couple weekends ago after extensive top-rope practice. Ball nuts make it still sketchy, but definitely not X-rated, in my opinion. That said, even will full sets of C3's and brassies, if you do not get some very specific ball nut placements, this is a solo. On my first lead attempt, I was an idiot and decided to go for it even though it was wet, and I didn't have the right ball nut on me. I decked from pulling the first little roof 15-20 feet up, though a purple C3 placement (which ripped) arrested my fall enough that I was totally unharmed. A couple weeks later, I went back, and got a ball nut in the same area, and was able to bounce on it repeatedly will my full body weight plus shock-loading on the placement, and it held. Still wouldn't want to take a lead fall on to it though. Aug 14, 2011
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.9+ R
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
  5.9+ R
Burt's gear beta: "all three ballnuts!" Jun 30, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.9+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.9+
This climb had a great variety of moves and a very consistent grade all the way through... until the very last parts of the top. The grade sort of fades out then and then it's a romp up to the anchors. Cool hand/footwork towards the bottom. I had way more fun on this climb than on Watermarks. Feb 21, 2010
Climbed it this weekend. After climbing through the morning on Saturday I was too burnt to nail the crux (yep, a little outa shape). Went back Sunday morning and nailed it on my second attempt. Awesome view from the top this time of year too (better of course after climbing then when setting up an anchor...). Haven't been climbing that long and this was a good confidence booster. Oct 31, 2005
Tom Petaitis  
 
I climbed 'Der Glotz' with the winter-weiry locals on a warm Feb 29, 2003 not expecting much other than a warm-up for Morning After(10d)/Morning Before(11d) lines (not sure what is what over there since all the tape is gone) and then Moondust(11b), and ended up amazed by how fun and crazy the moves get! Kudos to the routesetter. Best 5.9 I've ever been on anywhere (outdoors, that is)!

Next best climb in the Balanced Rock area, in my opinion, is the unlisted 15 foot block face above the ledge that Moondust finishes on. Roughly a 5.10c/d, bring your long arms. Mar 18, 2004
A fairly leadablr route with small rps etc. etc. Jan 29, 2004
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I always thought that there is no such thing as BETA OVERLOAD. Dec 24, 2003
BETA OVERLOAD Dec 19, 2003
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
 
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
 
Der Glotz is on the far left side of the picture above. It starts out on the right-leaning diagonal ledge. Apr 1, 2002