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Routes in 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall

12 5.9 dihedral T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
13 5.4 Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
22 5.8 face climb T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
6.63 Smoots T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
AAHRG T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Basswood Chimney T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Beer and Booty T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Bifurcation T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Der Glotz TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Der Glotzenlinks T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Dilemma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fear and Trembling TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grandma's Staircase TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Indigo Billy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invitation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Invitation Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Law and Gospel T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Moondust T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Morning After T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Mr. Neutron TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Box T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Night Before TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
R.S.V.P. T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Pulpit T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spring Fever TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sunken Pillar T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Switch Cover Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unnamed Short route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Watermarks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watermarks Direct T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Watermarks Left Side TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,714 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 15, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Watermarks Direct is located just to the right of Watermarks. Start to the right of the small ledge on Watermarks, with the two triangular pockets directly above you. Use small side-pull face holds and foot ledges to ascend the route up to the triangular pockets. From here the route links up with Watermarks. Climb the vertical crack to the top.

Protection

The direct start is a boulder problem, after which good gear can be found.
Tradiban
  5.10a PG13
Tradiban  
  5.10a PG13
Watermarks (and this whole wall) have not aged well. The rock was already greasy and slimy and then probably thousands have caked it with sludge. Movement is good on this route but it certainly didn't feel good to grab the holds.

After the good cam placement it's hard to protect the middle section until you get over the bulge for a good #1 or #2 C4 (I forget which). Aug 11, 2011
My First 5.10. How hard can it be right? Dec 11, 2006
Soloing watermarks direct was a standard practice by many of the DLFA in the late 70's and 80's. When we were crimping at the lake all the time it didn't seem like a hard solo at all (low crux). Years later leading it with my sons it felt harder. Dec 4, 2006
This route can and has been led by several bold climbers. I led it this summer with a bouldering crash pad as "pro" to protect the first 18 feet. Good gear abounds after this point. Oct 30, 2002