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Routes in 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall

12 5.9 dihedral T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
13 5.4 Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
22 5.8 face climb T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
6.63 Smoots T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
AAHRG T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Basswood Chimney T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Beer and Booty T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Bifurcation T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Der Glotz TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Der Glotzenlinks T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Dilemma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fear and Trembling TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grandma's Staircase TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Indigo Billy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invitation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Invitation Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Law and Gospel T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Moondust T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Morning After T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Mr. Neutron TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Box T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Night Before TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
R.S.V.P. T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Pulpit T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spring Fever TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sunken Pillar T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Switch Cover Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unnamed Short route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Watermarks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watermarks Direct T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Watermarks Left Side TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 384 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jeff VS on May 28, 2014
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Friend John Markestad and I have been working the face between Fear and Trembling and Red Pulpit. This is a truly lovely 5.10a/b unleadable (at least we wouldn't try it) climb and my favorite on the whole Balanced Rock Wall. The first crux is getting off the ground (no surprise there) and the next is a simple looking little bulge about 12 feet up. Ignore the juggy holds on the left higher up and you have a climb that every move is at least a 5.8. All moves are small face stuff with no cracks or large holds. Very elegant! We are calling it "Beer and Booty" since it took me 3 beers before I could pull the second crux and John found a #5 hex while setting the top pro.

Location

There is a six foot wide wall between "Fear and Trembling" and "The Red Pulpit". This route goes right up the middle. Don't use holds from those two climbs.

Protection

This climb really has no way to protect a lead other than stealing the Red Pulpit crack which would be very artificial.

Photos

If it wasn't posted on MP before...IT'S A FA!!!!!!! Apr 28, 2016
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
Best comment on MP? Apr 28, 2016
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
+1 Burt Apr 27, 2016
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Is this previous post the result of mixing good whisky with good weed and then trolling late night on the internet? It has got to be the only real explanation. Ha! Apr 27, 2016
Terry seems like a tool. A NUT tool. Because he's a nut, and a tool. I like nuts. The fleshy kind, not the climbing kind. I don't actually climb. I stumbled upon this site when googling lyrics to "Mississippi Queen" and thought this was a site to get the band back together. I figured I'd pitch in and sign whatever petition there was but instead saw that there are people from all different Whole Foods who like to get together and talk about the times they went to a state park and ran webbing across trails. Apr 26, 2016
rjacobs
  5.10a/b
rjacobs  
  5.10a/b
I read this entry only after having climbed this, so I don't have any strong options about whether-or-not variations like this should be officially listed (as opposed to just word of mouth, or general serendipity). Anyway, I don't think that my experience with the climb would have been reduced if I was getting on it only because I had read this.

What I can say is that this is a fine little climb. A couple tenuous moves at the bottom an interesting high-stepping/mantle move at the bulge. I also managed to do a signature "incisor grip" while moving over the bulge (due to the way my head was arching into the wall off the mantle), which is a technique that I do not recommend for others. It's certainly nice to find a new sequence on this wall. Jun 19, 2014
Jeff VS
 
Jeff VS  
 
Thanks Terry! Couldn't imagine it was a FA. It is such a pretty climb, I'd just like more people to enjoy it.

We also have a couple of "nobody knows about" spots that I'll never list on Mountain Project. May 30, 2014
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
+1 Terry May 30, 2014
I know it has been done before. I did it years ago and I doubt I was the first. There are several variations, contrivances, and possible stand alone routes on balanced rock wall (and others in the park for that matter) that are still only word of mouth or where done and no one was told. I enjoy doing something new to me that isn't in a guide book or on the internet and just walk away feeling good about the climb and accomplishment. If I don't tell people about it maybe they can experience the same satisfaction about it as I did. That's not to say I have never told the world about a FA but I also enjoy the quiet side of climbing and keep it as a solo adventure. So, just because its not in a guide or on the net doesn't mean it hasn't been done before.

That all being said I hope I didn't just ruin your experience by telling you it has been done. I hope you had a great evening of climbing. May 29, 2014
Jeff VS
 
Jeff VS  
 
This is such an obvious route I can't imagine it hasn't been done many times before. I don't find it listed in any of the guide books though. May 29, 2014