Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,521 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jeff VS on May 28, 2014
Admins: Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding

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Description Suggest change

Friend John Markestad and I have been working the face between Fear and Trembling and Red Pulpit. This is a truly lovely 5.10a/b unleadable (at least we wouldn't try it) climb and my favorite on the whole Balanced Rock Wall. The first crux is getting off the ground (no surprise there) and the next is a simple looking little bulge about 12 feet up. Ignore the juggy holds on the left higher up and you have a climb that every move is at least a 5.8. All moves are small face stuff with no cracks or large holds. Very elegant! We are calling it "Beer and Booty" since it took me 3 beers before I could pull the second crux and John found a #5 hex while setting the top pro.

Location Suggest change

There is a six foot wide wall between "Fear and Trembling" and "The Red Pulpit". This route goes right up the middle. Don't use holds from those two climbs.

Protection Suggest change

This climb really has no way to protect a lead other than stealing the Red Pulpit crack which would be very artificial.