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Routes in 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall

12 5.9 dihedral T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
13 5.4 Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
22 5.8 face climb T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
6.63 Smoots T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
AAHRG T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Basswood Chimney T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Beer and Booty T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Bifurcation T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Der Glotz TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Der Glotzenlinks T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Dilemma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fear and Trembling TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grandma's Staircase TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Indigo Billy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invitation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Invitation Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Law and Gospel T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Moondust T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Morning After T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Mr. Neutron TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Box T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Night Before TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
R.S.V.P. T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Pulpit T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spring Fever TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sunken Pillar T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Switch Cover Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unnamed Short route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Watermarks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watermarks Direct T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Watermarks Left Side TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,003 total, 21/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on Feb 15, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Watermarks is considered by many to be the ultimate moderate climb at the park. This may or may not be your opinion. The route has some nice moves and fun sequences, and it is easy to get to as it's right on the trail.

Watermarks is easily located by finding the water stains on the southeast end of the Balanced Rock Wall. Climb easily up to a small ledge. Traverse right carefully on this ledge until you reach the two triangular pockets. Use the two triangular pockets to make your way up to a slight bulge in the rock. Use the crack and small face holds to surmount the bulge (crux). Continue up crack to the top.

Protection

Standard Rack
John Wanner
  5.8
John Wanner  
  5.8
Length: about 50 feet. An excellent face climb, with the first 15 feet calling for rather creative protection (or maybe a bouldering pad). After stepping right into the triangular pockets, good gear in the incipient crack. One of those excellent climbs that has repeated fairly delicate moves, followed by good stances to place gear. Aug 30, 2016
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
 
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
 
From Gokul:


Description

This route is a minor variant of Watermarks (and a squeeze job). It starts just to the right of the regular start and goes up between the two black water streaks. After a few tenuous moves, you hit the good ledgy hold on Watermarks about 12' up. From here, you follow Watermarks or Watermarks Direct, or some combination of both.

The starting sidepulls used by Watermarks Direct are about 3 ft to the right of the start here and are off. The starting holds in the main Watermarks crack are also off.

Location

Between the two black streaks that define the starts of Watermarks and Watermarks Direct.

Protection

Bouldery start, then you get gear in Watermarks or Watermarks direct Mar 18, 2015
Tradiban  
 
Not a fan of this one and it definitely isn't a climb for a new 5.8 climber. Be careful to protect the middle section, there's a notch where I placed a nut but I didn't have confidence in it. Thankfully there's a good cam placement a bit higher up. Aug 11, 2011
sgauss
 
sgauss  
 
Set anchors for top roping on the ledge at the top of the climb, not up alongside Balanced Rock. From the base of Watermarks, go to the right and up to find the Box Canyon which is behind the wall. Go into the far SW corner of this, and boulder up about eight feet to get to the ledge. Oct 11, 2006
Stephen Marsh
Thornton, CO
  5.8
Stephen Marsh   Thornton, CO
  5.8
I meant just what I wrote, and nothing more! I haven't done enough climbing at Devils Lake to be able to form an opinion as to whether or not Watermarks is one of the great moderates in the area. I knew the climb was popular before doing it, and for me, it didn't hold up to all the hype. As I wrote, I still think it's a good climb worth doing. If it sounded like I was degrading the climbing at the Lake, that was not my intention. Jul 9, 2005
Stephen:If you don't mind me asking. What do you mean by your comment "if this climb (watermaraks)was anywhere else it would not be considered a classic"? Are Devils Lake "Classic's" any less a "Classic" by virtue of their location at Devils Lake? Please clarify. Jul 7, 2005
Stephen Marsh
Thornton, CO
  5.8
Stephen Marsh   Thornton, CO
  5.8
If this climb was anywhere else it would not be considered a classic. That's not to say it's a bad climb, I had fun leading it. The hardest climbing is on the first half and that's also the hardest part to protect. To lead it you better be comfortable at placing really small gear and trusting it. That, or use a crash pad and spotter for the start. Jul 6, 2005
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
  5.8+
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
  5.8+
watermarks is one of the best at dl.especially fun to climb on a full moon during the "beer ban"(does the dnr still do the beer ban thing?")bring plenty o swill and no flashlights or i.d. Mar 28, 2005
Zachary Wyatt
  5.8
Zachary Wyatt  
  5.8
Watermarks is a fun climb, plain and simple. It requires a nice variety of movement and, though it does have an identifiable crux, is consistently challenging throughout. I consider this a "must climb" route. Apr 19, 2004