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Routes in 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall

12 5.9 dihedral T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
13 5.4 Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
22 5.8 face climb T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
6.63 Smoots T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
AAHRG T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Basswood Chimney T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Beer and Booty T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Bifurcation T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Der Glotz TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Der Glotzenlinks T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Dilemma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fear and Trembling TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grandma's Staircase TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Indigo Billy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invitation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Invitation Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Law and Gospel T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Moondust T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Morning After T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Mr. Neutron TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Box T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Night Before TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
R.S.V.P. T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Pulpit T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spring Fever TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sunken Pillar T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Switch Cover Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unnamed Short route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Watermarks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watermarks Direct T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Watermarks Left Side TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Bob Horan/ Rich Bechler, circa 1976
Page Views: 717 total · 6/month
Shared By: bhoran Horan on Mar 14, 2009
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Hand jams and finger layaways to the top

Location

Located on the slightly overhanging east facing wall, left of Watermarks wall, avoid stemming to slab on right.

Protection

stoppers, cams to 3.5

Photos

John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
This thing is 5.11b in the guidebook. Me thinks Bob is trying to sandbag us. Sep 11, 2009
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.11a
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.11a
I got on this today. I thought the jams were very solid, and fun, but the wall of Bifurcation is too close and as I was laybacking the upper portion of the crack, my back was hitting the wall. Would be cooler if it weren't so close to that wall! All in all, kind of contrived but I guess it's worth it if you want good jams... they are real good. May 15, 2011
Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
  5.11a
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
  5.11a
This route is awesome! Best climb at this wall. And, probably one of the best-protected 11's at the Lake. I didn't feel like it was contrived at all (at least by DL standards). You just climb only using the crack and then the face, no need to backstep. Also, didn't have any laybacks like Andy (it's a crack, Andy, no laybacks). Feels similar to Sometime Direct, albeit shorter and burlier. Would be a DL classic if it were twice as long. Aug 7, 2011
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
I keep thinking the F.A. was done in 1978 not 76. no biggy. And yes Bob will sandbag on occasion. peace etc Aug 18, 2011

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