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Routes in 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall

12 5.9 dihedral T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
13 5.4 Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
22 5.8 face climb T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
6.63 Smoots T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
AAHRG T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Basswood Chimney T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Beer and Booty T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Bifurcation T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Der Glotz TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Der Glotzenlinks T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Dilemma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fear and Trembling TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grandma's Staircase TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Indigo Billy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invitation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Invitation Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Law and Gospel T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Moondust T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Morning After T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Mr. Neutron TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Box T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Night Before TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
R.S.V.P. T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Pulpit T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spring Fever TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sunken Pillar T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Switch Cover Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unnamed Short route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Watermarks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watermarks Direct T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Watermarks Left Side TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,592 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 27, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Sunken Pillar is directly behind the Oak Tree between Der Glotz and Red Pulpit. Start out on either crack (left is a little better quality). Use blocky hand and foot holds to climb up. Once the cracks diverge follow either crack up. The upper half of the left crack is really nice for side-pull moves.

To set up the Top Rope for this climb the biners should be to the northwest of the Balanced Rock.

Protection

Standard Rack
John Wanner  
 
There are 3 variations to the climb. I've been climbing at Devil's Lake since the 1970's and there are many climbs there that are as close as the two single crack variations. If you use both cracks, 5.5 is probably a reasonable grade. If you try just the right crack and stay out of the left, it's probably closer to a 5.6. Staying in the left crack only gives about a 5.7 move or two-it's definitely quite a bit harder than using both cracks. Setting one top rope (or leading one variation-excellent pro in the cracks-and then using a TR) you get 3 interesting and quite different, moderate climbs for the price of one. Jun 15, 2016
Sunken Pillar is the route right under balanced rock it is a super fun top rope climb for beginners. Once you get past the crux which is about one third of the way up it shouldn't be as hard. It was a really fun climb and Devils Lake is a really cool place. I definitely recommend this climb and I also recommend going to Devils Lake in Wisconsin.
Apr 3, 2016
Gokul

 
Gokul    
 
For a fun variation stick to only one of the two cracks (the other one is off). Bumps up the grade by a couple points. Jul 14, 2014
Jeff Christbaum
Muskego, WI
  5.5
Jeff Christbaum   Muskego, WI
  5.5
As a new leader this was a great first lead. The climbing isn't difficult, the holds and stances are great for placing gear, and the route will take just about any gear you've got. I used a combination of nuts, cams, and hexes. I think I was able to place about a dozen pieces on my first ascent. More could have been placed but I ran out of slings. The largest piece placed was a #4 C4. Tons of spaces for small cams, too. Apr 30, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.5
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.5
This is a really good beginner's lead. The pro is good before, during and after the crux. The crux is short and very slightly overhung but stemming and using both cracks makes it a breeze. Takes big gear and hexes very well. Oct 28, 2010