Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,761 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 27, 2002
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route

56 Opinions

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Sunken Pillar is directly behind the Oak Tree between Der Glotz and Red Pulpit. Start out on either crack (left is a little better quality). Use blocky hand and foot holds to climb up. Once the cracks diverge follow either crack up. The upper half of the left crack is really nice for side-pull moves.

To set up the Top Rope for this climb the biners should be to the northwest of the Balanced Rock.


Standard Rack


Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
This is a really good beginner's lead. The pro is good before, during and after the crux. The crux is short and very slightly overhung but stemming and using both cracks makes it a breeze. Takes big gear and hexes very well. Oct 28, 2010
Jeff Christbaum
Muskego, WI
Jeff Christbaum   Muskego, WI
As a new leader this was a great first lead. The climbing isn't difficult, the holds and stances are great for placing gear, and the route will take just about any gear you've got. I used a combination of nuts, cams, and hexes. I think I was able to place about a dozen pieces on my first ascent. More could have been placed but I ran out of slings. The largest piece placed was a #4 C4. Tons of spaces for small cams, too. Apr 30, 2012
Madison, WIsconsin
Gokul   Madison, WIsconsin  
For a fun variation stick to only one of the two cracks (the other one is off). Bumps up the grade by a couple points. Jul 14, 2014
Sunken Pillar is the route right under balanced rock it is a super fun top rope climb for beginners. Once you get past the crux which is about one third of the way up it shouldn't be as hard. It was a really fun climb and Devils Lake is a really cool place. I definitely recommend this climb and I also recommend going to Devils Lake in Wisconsin.
Apr 3, 2016
John Wanner  
There are 3 variations to the climb. I've been climbing at Devil's Lake since the 1970's and there are many climbs there that are as close as the two single crack variations. If you use both cracks, 5.5 is probably a reasonable grade. If you try just the right crack and stay out of the left, it's probably closer to a 5.6. Staying in the left crack only gives about a 5.7 move or two-it's definitely quite a bit harder than using both cracks. Setting one top rope (or leading one variation-excellent pro in the cracks-and then using a TR) you get 3 interesting and quite different, moderate climbs for the price of one. Jun 15, 2016