Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 809 total · 5/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Sep 18, 2006
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Crux move for some of us, is where the top of the crack ends and you have to move out and do a few of the face moves on Dr. Coolhead. If you excel at face moves, then the more likely crux comes back where the crack banks left and flares on smearing feet. Be careful not get gear into your holds until you have passed them.

Location

Just right of Dr. Coolhead. The zig zag crack.

Protection

Gear, Chains.

Photos

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MauryB
Boulder, CO
MauryB   Boulder, CO
Always felt like the crux was the wide part of the leftward leaning crack. Jul 8, 2007
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  5.10a
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  5.10a
Solid fun zig zagging crack. Good pro. Apr 8, 2015
Herndon  
The cracks between Dr. Coolhead and Scrotum Roof can be mixed up and climbed in many ways. Fun to do them all. Jan 17, 2016
Jordan Pitts
kansas (the abyss)
 
Jordan Pitts   kansas (the abyss)
 
I just top rope soloed it a few times, but it felt easy to do the left leaning part as a kind of standing undercling. "Walking/smearing" on the bottom ledge of the flaring crack. Staying in with right leg and using face holds on left felt super awkward. Dec 18, 2017