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Routes in Zoo Wall

Body Suit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Closed Heimer TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conflict In Terms T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crazy Alice T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dihedral, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. Coolhead T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Extended Altar Call T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasy Roof T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Grasshopper, AKA "Richard Pryor Route" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Nun Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Nun, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knuckle Sandwich T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Larin Has Balls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leap Frog T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Roof (aka Small Roof) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters of Reality T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
McBride's Mind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
No Stone Unturned T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Resurrection Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scrotum Roof T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shake and Bake T C2
Side Saddle T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slap Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sloth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squeeze Play T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Face TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sundown Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweet Jesus T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Time the Avenger TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Much Fun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Triple Decker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unfinished Piece, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, TR, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,230 total · 9/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Sep 27, 2006
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You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Climbing the slab and up past the large cedar tree to the right of Critical Mass. Cedar tree makes a good anchor for those into short pitches. Then the original route in 'Southern Exposure' traverses left to join Critical Mass and the two right finishing legs of 'Flying Grasshopper, AKA Richard Pryor". As a single pitch, and seen in newer guides, taking the direct line above the Cedar keeps rope drag down but at the cost of hard exposed moves.

Location

Start just right of the Critical Mass Slab. Crazy Alice Rap Station.

Protection

All Gear.

Photos

CalebSimpson
  5.7+
CalebSimpson  
  5.7+
The rating on this route is BS, there is an airy, exposed move over a roof with only slick downward sloping slab for feet. It's awful at first, but once you pull the move it isn't to bad. But it's a huge head trip and no 5.6 climber could make those moves. I rated it 5.7+ because I think it could be closer to an 5.8.

Oh, and broke this up into two pitches. Set up a belay under the roof, thought I was running low on gear, but turns out I could have easily finished and still set an anchor up top Jan 3, 2009
CalebSimpson
  5.7+
CalebSimpson  
  5.7+
Looking at an old guide book the topo here does not show the correct route. You should traverse far left, not pull the roof like the topo shows. Old guide book also says 5.7, so by my guess if you pull the roof it may even go at 5.8. But who am I to say? Mar 19, 2009
Stan Jones
Benbrook, TX
  5.6
Stan Jones   Benbrook, TX
  5.6
The slabby corner 10' to the left is really hard to protect, so I elected to go up the diagonal hand crack slightly left (as Caleb discusses). I think that a way to protect the climb further left would be to stick a medium to large piece in the hand crack before traversing. Apr 28, 2009
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
 
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
 
The roof section of this route is more about your head than anything else. IMO, bypassing this obstacle to the left would sink the rating to 5.5. If your weak on slab then the roof will feel more intense than it actually is. I bet that another pass will make it seem way easier than it was during the first round. Mar 4, 2010
bad dude
Oklahoma City,OK
  5.7+ PG13
bad dude   Oklahoma City,OK
  5.7+ PG13
took the direct path at the crux, and was hesitant. I did get the onsite, but this is not a 5.6 in my opinion, even compared to other 5.6s in the refuge. Apr 25, 2012
Brent Butcher
  5.8-
Brent Butcher  
  5.8-
I don't know why this route isn't in Tony's guidebook but I really enjoyed the route. Fun exposed moves near the top make it a great Wichita's climb. Apr 27, 2012
Drew Nevius
Oklahoma
  5.8-
Drew Nevius   Oklahoma
  5.8-
Fun route! I led it all in one pitch, but it could be broken into two. The first pitch is 60ft up to the large roof in the left facing corner with the dead tree and would be a great beginner lead at 5.5-5.6. The 30ft second pitch climbs through the slabby dihedral above the left end of the roof felt about 5.8. I'm not sure where a well protected 5.6 option for the second pitch would go... Jul 26, 2016
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
 
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
 
Also... do know the topo pic I posted for Zoo Wall's main page. The line showing Unfinished Piece is a direct copy of what is shown in "The Oklahoma Climber's Guide" by Lohn. Jul 26, 2016
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
 
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
 
Do note: For the genuine 5.6 route, past the cedar tree, traverse sharply left and avoid the exposed moves above. The direct line above goes at least 5.7 or better. Confusion is understandable. Likely the reason it's being suggested for an upgrade. Dec 19, 2016
Michael Parker
Tulsa, OK
  5.8
Michael Parker   Tulsa, OK
  5.8
First pitch was pretty casual up to the cedar tree with a fun slabby ramp near the top. I'm not sure about the 2nd pitch. I moved left and tried to pull over the bulge into the dihedral but your feet disappear and the crack is too small for even my tips to get into. I ended up using the nice incut rail on the left side of the bulging boulder instead of moving up the dihedral. I have no idea how to keep the grade near 5.6 for the 2nd pitch, getting onto the bulging slab was no joke. Feb 6, 2017
Daniel Rickert
Dallas, TX
Daniel Rickert   Dallas, TX
Climbed this on Saturday and will toss in my two cents. The slabby corner moves above the roof are definitely difficult if you are a "5.6 climber," but the protection is there (place some nuts) and you just have to trust yourself a bit. Great route to do in the area! Mar 20, 2018

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