Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft|
|Page Views:||454 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Craig Childre on Sep 21, 2006|
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Climb up the nice edges to a suspect flake that takes gear. Pull up on a precarious looking horn through a slab section up to a horizontal with a fixed angle (back it up with a small cam). Step up and turn the next roof, pulling gentley to find some good placements for small cams. You will find another piton, from which you can moving left to the 3 bolt anchor (5.10b). The traditional ascent works straight up over the black buldge to a bolt that protects the hard cranks using thin edges and sidepulls finishing on easy moves to the top. Take some slings to avoid major rope drag.
Climb the lower section of the Dihedral, or scramble up the tunnel and onto the upper ledge and belay up. Rap off 3 bolt anchor, or scramble down to the Crazy Alice rap station.
1 fixed angle, back up with small cam. 1 fixed piton, back up if you can. Bolt. Small gear rack. (#2-C3, #1-C3, .75-C4, #4-C4 (lower Dihedral)).
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