Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 465 total · 3/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Sep 21, 2006
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Climb up the nice edges to a suspect flake that takes gear. Pull up on a precarious looking horn through a slab section up to a horizontal with a fixed angle (back it up with a small cam). Step up and turn the next roof, pulling gentley to find some good placements for small cams. You will find another piton, from which you can moving left to the 3 bolt anchor (5.10b). The traditional ascent works straight up over the black buldge to a bolt that protects the hard cranks using thin edges and sidepulls finishing on easy moves to the top. Take some slings to avoid major rope drag.

Location

Climb the lower section of the Dihedral, or scramble up the tunnel and onto the upper ledge and belay up. Rap off 3 bolt anchor, or scramble down to the Crazy Alice rap station.

Protection

1 fixed angle, back up with small cam. 1 fixed piton, back up if you can. Bolt. Small gear rack. (#2-C3, #1-C3, .75-C4, #4-C4 (lower Dihedral)).

*Rockfall Alert*

Warning: Avoid climbing this route if the landing for Dihedral and Crazy Alice is occupied. Some large crusty blocks look like they could let go anytime and flatten that unsuspecting group of top roping boyscouts. Keep everyone on alert as this beast continues to shed.

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