Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: Jon Frank & Ratzliff 1979
Page Views: 496 total · 3/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Dec 13, 2007 with improvements by Rhys Beaudry
Admins: Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Just above the top out of Flying Nun is a short roof section. The left hand-sized crack is Little Roof, the right fist+ sized crack is 'Sloth'. Start directly under the crack, climbing up 10 ft of easy face to a rail below the roof. Here, you can place a 0.1 cam in the thin seam on the roof, or, reach to the jug rail in the base of the crack and place a cam or two (0.5-1) overhead. High hands and lay-backing gets you over the bulge where you gain a mossy finger crack and establish yourself on easy terrain. An anchor can be built directly above Sloth with cams at 2/3. 

Location

Alcove just above Flying Nun. You can climb up to the Crazy Alice anchor and scramble up as well. Not to mention, you could hike in from up top.

Protection

Cams

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