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Routes in Zoo Wall

Body Suit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Closed Heimer TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conflict In Terms T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crazy Alice T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dihedral, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. Coolhead T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Extended Altar Call T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasy Roof T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Grasshopper, AKA "Richard Pryor Route" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Nun Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Nun, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knuckle Sandwich T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Larin Has Balls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leap Frog T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Roof (aka Small Roof) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters of Reality T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
McBride's Mind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
No Stone Unturned T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Resurrection Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scrotum Roof T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shake and Bake T C2
Side Saddle T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slap Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sloth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squeeze Play T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Face TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sundown Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweet Jesus T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Time the Avenger TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Much Fun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Triple Decker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unfinished Piece, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bob Marvin & Scott McBride
Page Views: 470 total · 3/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Sep 22, 2006 with updates from John Barritt
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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Good climbing with some weird moves. Can be a single pitch but to reduce rope drag it is best to break into two. Protectet the traverse for your second.

Location

Start up the obvious crack on right of McBride's Mind. Move left and rebelay. Then zig zag up, pick your pleasure. Rap from Crazy Alice station.

Protection

Gear and chain anchor.

History

This route was named 'Flying Grasshopper' originally with three starts and three finishes.

Sourced from Souther Exposure Guidebook

Alternate routes and ratings

Three starts and three finishes. So you can pick one that suits your skill level.

Left to right.

Start A: (5.8) Jam the fist crack right of "Mcbride's Mind" up onto a ledge.

Start B: (5.7) Take a short corner leading into a small chimney ten feet right of the fist crack.

Start C: (5.8) Mantle up a series of overhanging blocks to the right of the chimney.

Traverse right at the horizontal crack/ledge about 15 feet to a grassy ledge and traverse right again into the alcove, often used to set an anchor.

Finish D: (5.7) Follow the horizontal crack right to a ledge below a short slab, climb on large holds to ledges leading to the top.

Finish E: (5.8) Chimney up the slot to a small ledge, step right and climb a short finger crack to join the ledge finish with option 'D'.

Finish F: (5.9) Follow the small ledge from the alcove out onto the face then follow the cracks to the right and up.

Photos

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Andy Chasteen
Oklahoma City, OK
 
Andy Chasteen   Oklahoma City, OK
 
Hard to not have rope drag, way too short for multiple pitches. Contrived, but still worth climbing. Almost peeled on the lichen covered traverse at the end, escaping a nasty long fall. Puckered a bit. Jan 28, 2008
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
 
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
 
First time anyone I knew attempted to lead this route. Was dudes 3rd lead, with a rack of forged friends, who had trouble protecting that traverse, and couldn't commit to those final few moves. Couple of Okies from the climbing gym up in the City rolled in, dusted off Leap Frog linked with The Flying Nun complete with a poison ivy finish. Rapping off, they pulled up the rope from the guys stuck leading Pryor so they could escape via top rope. Lesson that day, learn how to escape. Dec 19, 2016

More About Flying Grasshopper, AKA "Richard Pryor Route"

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