Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bob Marvin & Scott McBride
Page Views: 492 total · 3/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Sep 22, 2006 with updates from John Barritt
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Good climbing with some weird moves. Can be a single pitch but to reduce rope drag it is best to break into two. Protectet the traverse for your second.

Location

Start up the obvious crack on right of McBride's Mind. Move left and rebelay. Then zig zag up, pick your pleasure. Rap from Crazy Alice station.

Protection

Gear and chain anchor.

History

This route was named 'Flying Grasshopper' originally with three starts and three finishes.

Sourced from Souther Exposure Guidebook

Alternate routes and ratings

Three starts and three finishes. So you can pick one that suits your skill level.

Left to right.

Start A: (5.8) Jam the fist crack right of "Mcbride's Mind" up onto a ledge.

Start B: (5.7) Take a short corner leading into a small chimney ten feet right of the fist crack.

Start C: (5.8) Mantle up a series of overhanging blocks to the right of the chimney.

Traverse right at the horizontal crack/ledge about 15 feet to a grassy ledge and traverse right again into the alcove, often used to set an anchor.

Finish D: (5.7) Follow the horizontal crack right to a ledge below a short slab, climb on large holds to ledges leading to the top.

Finish E: (5.8) Chimney up the slot to a small ledge, step right and climb a short finger crack to join the ledge finish with option 'D'.

Finish F: (5.9) Follow the small ledge from the alcove out onto the face then follow the cracks to the right and up.

Photos

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Andy Chasteen
Oklahoma City, OK
 
Andy Chasteen   Oklahoma City, OK
 
Hard to not have rope drag, way too short for multiple pitches. Contrived, but still worth climbing. Almost peeled on the lichen covered traverse at the end, escaping a nasty long fall. Puckered a bit. Jan 28, 2008
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
  5.8
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
  5.8
First time anyone I knew attempted to lead this route. Was dudes 3rd lead, with a rack of forged friends, who had trouble protecting that traverse, and couldn't commit to those final few moves. Couple of Okies from the climbing gym up in the City rolled in, dusted off Leap Frog linked with The Flying Nun complete with a poison ivy finish. Rapping off, they pulled up the rope from the guys stuck leading Pryor so they could escape via top rope. Lesson that day, learn how to escape. Dec 19, 2016