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Routes in Zoo Wall

Body Suit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Closed Heimer TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conflict In Terms T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crazy Alice T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Delete this route, Duplicate! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dihedral, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. Coolhead T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Extended Altar Call T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasy Roof T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Grasshopper, AKA "Richard Pryor Route" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Nun Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Nun, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knuckle Sandwich T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Larin Has Balls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leap Frog T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Roof (aka Small Roof) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters of Reality T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
McBride's Mind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
No Stone Unturned T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Resurrection Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scrotum Roof T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shake and Bake T C2
Side Saddle T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slap Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sloth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squeeze Play T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Face TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sundown Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweet Jesus T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Time the Avenger TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Much Fun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Triple Decker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unfinished Piece, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,931 total, 14/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Sep 18, 2006
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Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

The crux is in the first couple of moves off the ground. Climbing turns easy as you head up the broken ledges.

Location

Look for the yellow lichen covering the corner on the right side of Right Zoo Wall. Start below the tree.

Protection

Gear, little run out for a 5 climber low, but it is good.
Michael A Parker
Tulsa, OK
  5.7
Michael A Parker   Tulsa, OK
  5.7
Had a great time climbing this route this past weekend. I thought the gear was pretty solid, but I used more hexes than cams. I went up thinking it was a 5.5 and quickly realized that was not the case. I did this in 1 pitch and the rope drag became an issue as I was topping out. My only words of caution are skip the first tree as it appears to be dead. The 2nd tree was better but still not great, back it up or make a gear anchor. Feb 6, 2017
Tristan Bradford
Oklahoma City, OK
Tristan Bradford   Oklahoma City, OK
Jason Slay
Aurora, CO
Jason Slay   Aurora, CO
Did this as a single pitch. Agree with the 5.7 rating as there are some committed moves. Doing this again, I would definitely split it up into two pitches due to the rope drag. This would be a great multi-pitch practice route. Nov 14, 2011
bad dude
Oklahoma City,OK
  5.7 PG13
bad dude   Oklahoma City,OK
  5.7 PG13
I did this climb onsite, and loved it. we split it into two pitches and belayed the second pitch from the ledge halfway up the route. Apr 30, 2011
Stan Jones
Benbrook, TX
  5.7
Stan Jones   Benbrook, TX
  5.7
To me, getting off the ground was tricky but not hard. The cruxes were the offwidth just below the ledge in the middle of the route and the slightly overhanging move a bit above the ledge. I also agree with the 5.7 rating. Apr 26, 2010
CalebSimpson
  5.7
CalebSimpson  
  5.7
This route is NOT 5.5. It is definitely 5.7, maybe even bordering some 5.8 moves. Somebody needs to update this rating. I went out and did the climb this weekend thinking it was going to be a 5.5, I was in fur quite a surprise, but did finish it without a fall or take, so I was still happy. The route IS fun though and worth doing. Dec 20, 2008
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
 
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
 
Good points here.

Addressing one, gear, and the difficulty of placing that gear. This has no bearing of the actual difficulty rating attached to a route. A route being run-out, or having sketchy gear is usually reflected in the X or RX ratings, not the YDS numbers.

I am not sure if that was the inital point, but I just wanted to be clarify, and make this point, applicable or not. Sep 25, 2008
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.7
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.7
Well, it has been a long while since I have done this route, but I feel the grade is 5.7. I remember never having climbed it before and reading the Chuck's book that said 5.5, I was soloing that day and decided to do it. I felt soild soloing 5.8 at the time, but was surprised by the 5.5 grade. Felt harder than that to me. Two cents deposited. Sep 1, 2008
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
 
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
 
5.7?

I am not knocking Tony, by any means. He crusies most 12's, and solos 10's. So his perception of the difference between a 5.5 and a 5.7 is sort of jadeded. That is, to him, everything below 5.8 is just 5.FUN , and it all sort of looks about the same. Consider this, could you differenciate between a 5.3 and 5.1? I know that I would be hard pressed to.

Really, ratings are great to measure yourself, but nothing to live and die by. I try to use them as a guide, so when I attempt a new route it will fall somewhere in the range of that rating maybe harder, or easier, but somewhere close. Jul 2, 2008
CalebSimpson
  5.7
CalebSimpson  
  5.7
Oklahoma Select gives this a 5.7, why? Apr 30, 2008
Steve Marr
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Steve Marr   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Good route for the grade, but the gear can be a little tricky to place. Many of the cracks are flaring, and the protection isn't as straight forward as on other 5.5s. Nov 7, 2006