Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,153 total · 14/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Sep 18, 2006
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You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

The crux is in the first couple of moves off the ground. Climbing turns easy as you head up the broken ledges.

Location

Look for the yellow lichen covering the corner on the right side of Right Zoo Wall. Start below the tree.

Protection

Gear, little run out for a 5 climber low, but it is good.

Photos

Steve Marr
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Steve Marr   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Good route for the grade, but the gear can be a little tricky to place. Many of the cracks are flaring, and the protection isn't as straight forward as on other 5.5s. Nov 7, 2006
CalebSimpson
  5.7
CalebSimpson  
  5.7
Oklahoma Select gives this a 5.7, why? Apr 30, 2008
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
  5.5
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
  5.5
5.7?

I am not knocking Tony, by any means. He crusies most 12's, and solos 10's. So his perception of the difference between a 5.5 and a 5.7 is sort of jadeded. That is, to him, everything below 5.8 is just 5.FUN , and it all sort of looks about the same. Consider this, could you differenciate between a 5.3 and 5.1? I know that I would be hard pressed to.

Really, ratings are great to measure yourself, but nothing to live and die by. I try to use them as a guide, so when I attempt a new route it will fall somewhere in the range of that rating maybe harder, or easier, but somewhere close. Jul 2, 2008
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.7
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.7
Well, it has been a long while since I have done this route, but I feel the grade is 5.7. I remember never having climbed it before and reading the Chuck's book that said 5.5, I was soloing that day and decided to do it. I felt soild soloing 5.8 at the time, but was surprised by the 5.5 grade. Felt harder than that to me. Two cents deposited. Sep 1, 2008
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
  5.5
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
  5.5
Good points here.

Addressing one, gear, and the difficulty of placing that gear. This has no bearing of the actual difficulty rating attached to a route. A route being run-out, or having sketchy gear is usually reflected in the X or RX ratings, not the YDS numbers.

I am not sure if that was the inital point, but I just wanted to be clarify, and make this point, applicable or not. Sep 25, 2008
CalebSimpson
  5.7
CalebSimpson  
  5.7
This route is NOT 5.5. It is definitely 5.7, maybe even bordering some 5.8 moves. Somebody needs to update this rating. I went out and did the climb this weekend thinking it was going to be a 5.5, I was in fur quite a surprise, but did finish it without a fall or take, so I was still happy. The route IS fun though and worth doing. Dec 20, 2008
Stan Jones
Benbrook, TX
  5.7
Stan Jones   Benbrook, TX
  5.7
To me, getting off the ground was tricky but not hard. The cruxes were the offwidth just below the ledge in the middle of the route and the slightly overhanging move a bit above the ledge. I also agree with the 5.7 rating. Apr 26, 2010
bad dude
Oklahoma City,OK
  5.7 PG13
bad dude   Oklahoma City,OK
  5.7 PG13
I did this climb onsite, and loved it. we split it into two pitches and belayed the second pitch from the ledge halfway up the route. Apr 30, 2011
Jason Slay
Aurora, CO
Jason Slay   Aurora, CO
Did this as a single pitch. Agree with the 5.7 rating as there are some committed moves. Doing this again, I would definitely split it up into two pitches due to the rope drag. This would be a great multi-pitch practice route. Nov 14, 2011
Tristan Bradford
Oklahoma City, OK
Tristan Bradford   Oklahoma City, OK
Michael Parker
Bozeman, MT
  5.7
Michael Parker   Bozeman, MT
  5.7
Had a great time climbing this route this past weekend. I thought the gear was pretty solid, but I used more hexes than cams. I went up thinking it was a 5.5 and quickly realized that was not the case. I did this in 1 pitch and the rope drag became an issue as I was topping out. My only words of caution are skip the first tree as it appears to be dead. The 2nd tree was better but still not great, back it up or make a gear anchor. Feb 6, 2017