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Routes in Cannibal Crag

A Man in Every Pot S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baseboy S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Baseboy (Bolted Variation) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Caliban S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Caustic Cock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elbows of Mac and Ronnie S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fear This S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fuck this Sport (aka Fear this Sport) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Have a Beer with Fear S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ma and Pa Kettle S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mac and Ronnie in Cheese S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Maneater S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Wave Hookers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nipple Fish S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pickled Cock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Save the Heart to Eat Later S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
What's Eating You S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wonderstuff S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
You Are What You Eat T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten, Dan Kruleski, Shelby Shelton, Richard Harrison, Sal Mamusia (1991)
Page Views: 17,346 total, 123/month
Shared By: Ian Wolfe on Apr 29, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route follows the stunning arete feature on the NE side of the Cannibal Boulder. Easy climbing up to the second bolt, where the real fun begins. From here it gets steep and interesting. The crux begins after the third bolt is clipped and includes a few desparate moves to surmount the cock, and a very desparate and kind of scary clip for the 4th bolt. From there, a few airy crimpers lead up to bolted anchors.

This is a wonderful spot to get good climbing shots from the ground if you are a photographer. The arete stands out against the skyline from both sides and the overhanging line looks absolutely awesome. Be sure to bring your core face for the onlookers who frequent the area!

Protection

4 draws to clip pro with, and 2 more for the anchor at the top.

Photos




The spray is strong in the South Lake Tah-bros!!1!!!1!

#flasheditinmymythosbro Mar 31, 2016
Kim Ran  
Beware, the second bolt on this route was very loose and spinning. You can see where there is room between the rock and the bolt itself and it flexed on a take. May 2, 2017
Xocomil
South Lake Tahoe
  5.10d
Xocomil   South Lake Tahoe
  5.10d
I agree with my friend taylor currier - 10D or 11a. I flashed this today in my mythos. Certainly not an 11b. It is a beautiful climb, though. Mar 31, 2016
Taylor Currier 1
South Lake Tahoe, California
Taylor Currier 1   South Lake Tahoe, California
Climbed this yesterday under the hot May sun. Bolts were good. Clipping was easy. Climbing was fun. I thought I had climbed a 5.10 route. This is a soft 5.11 in my opinion. I'm gonna say 10d...even as a shorter climber. May 26, 2015
Nate Young
Phoenix
 
Nate Young   Phoenix
 
My right arm ended up getting really pumped... just the right arm, everything else was fine :/... May 13, 2015
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
This climb is a heady lead. Probably because of the exposure. Some of the holds aren't as great as you think and one or two of the clips up there were most definitely committing. But you're safe if you fall. This is a super popular route. Mar 15, 2015
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
Got on the route post-break yesterday and it's definitely harder, although I don't think it's 5.11c for me. It might be for shorter folks.

Two significant holds broke this season after someone climbed it after a rain-

1) the small crimp before the clipping jug at the last pro bolt is now gone, forcing a pretty big move to the jug. If you're taller, a kneebar solves the problem, if you're shorter, though, you'll likely have to do a pretty big toss off the insecure side pull below. Saw lots of people pitching off this move.

2) the small crimp above the clipping jug at the last pro bolt is now more of a sloping nub, making the pull off it basically not possible at the grade. Thankfully, there's a sloping jug out right that allows for this section to be done at the same difficulty.

I would say it's definitely solid at 5.11b for sure, possibly harder depending on how the move to the jug feels for folks now... Mar 9, 2015
JF1
Las Vegas
JF1   Las Vegas
Thanks to a donation from the ASCA and in conjuction with the LVCLC the last pro bolt on this route was replaced with a 6 1/2" FIXE glue in. Jan 22, 2014
MN norske
Henderson
  5.11a/b
MN norske   Henderson
  5.11a/b
Climbed this a few days ago. Felt soft for the grade. Epic climb for sure. The last bolt is still loose. Oct 22, 2013
Manjushri  
 
I climbed this yesterday and noticed a definitive wiggle in the last bolt, maybe 1/16" to 1/8" when I jerked the hanger around with a draw. I'll try to coordinate a replacement soon. Aug 16, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.11a/b
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.11a/b
Sweet route. Climbed it with headlamps. None of the clips were scary at all, just don't try to clip high I guess. Dec 21, 2011
Alex "Tojo" Kray
Chandler, AZ
  5.11b
Alex "Tojo" Kray   Chandler, AZ
  5.11b
the bomber ledge just above the 4th bolt has a horizontal low-energy hand jam out right for those with no endurance =D Apr 26, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
On 5/14/10 the ASCA replaced the second bolt on this route- moving it two or three feet to the right, onto the main bulge of the route. It is a 1/2" x 3.5 5-piece.

The bolt was moved this far because we were unable to place it near enough to the original location to facilitate clipping for shorter folks before they would have to commit to the moves above the bolt. The rock in between the old bolt and new bolt is hollow and unsuitable for bolting, thus the new position. If you have any questions or concerns about the location of this bolt, please let us know. May 14, 2010
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11b
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11b
HOLY SHIT this climb is a bucket of joy. Exposure, jugs, gripability, and quite a long way from that last bolt if'n you don't have the strength to clip the hooks at the anchor. (I should know. My belayer, new to the ways of the Gri-Gri, didn't know to pay out slack--was just letting me PUUUULLLL my way through the clips. And? I didn't make that anchor clip. I can tell you, overhanging 11b is the ONLY way to fly...)

BETA SPOILER: The third and fourth clips (or fourth and fifth, depending on whether that first, controversial bolt is in) aren't as desperate as they initially seem. THIRD CLIP: cam a left foot deep in that small cave/hueco and pivot easily off your right foot for clipping/sorta-resting pleasure. FORTH CLIP: Keep working up, young hero, until you can get a half thigh-bar for your right leg to make this clip easy, too.

ALSO, all the jugs up top are enticing, but work way right, initially, for the best, most positive holds. Then start jugging back towards the anchors. That shit just above the last bolt is just that: shit. Apr 5, 2010
dnoB ekiM  
 
This might be one of the best and is definitely the most photogenic 11B in RR. Don't let the description above discourage you. I am the biggest sport climbing wuss there is and I never felt like the 4th clip was "scary" or sketchy in any way...the third bolt is at your feet at worst...as I recall.

I agree with the others, the first bolt is a smart addition. I'm glad FA-party finally warmed up to the idea. I've climbed the route with and without it (as it has been placed and pulled multiple times in the last 10 years)...and it is a bit sketchy without it. The TCU's go in the pockets about 2/3's the way to the second (or first...) bolt. That said, it is sketch just to get there. Much better route with the lower first bolt in place. Oct 4, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11a/b
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11a/b
Would be hairy without the 1st bolt. The book mentions a TCU placement, not sure where it would go... The crux is quite pumpy, especially if you try to clip the 4th bolt from down low. Sack up and gun for the jugs, the fall is clean. The top has fixed sport anchors now, only 4 draws required for the route. Jan 2, 2008
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
Gary.....thanks for adding that bolt, otherwise I would have not considered leading this one. Great route.....pummmmmmmpy! Aug 21, 2007
Gary Savage
Las Vegas, NV
Gary Savage   Las Vegas, NV
I asked Paul before I replaced the bolt. Now you don't have to go to the hospital if a hand hold breaks. Mar 15, 2007
A local told me that there was originally a bolt there, but it was chopped because of its proximity to a faint petroglyph. The bolt occasionally reappears and is chopped again. Sep 8, 2006
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.11b
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.11b
Someone placed a "new" bolt at the bottom of the route. Climbers used to have a runout to get to the first bolt, starting the nerves before the real fun even began. =)

Edit: I agree with Gary, in that on such a popular route the added bolt down low has certainly saved some injuries. Jun 18, 2006