Caustic Cock
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.4 from 1,054 votes
Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | Paul Van Betten, Dan Kruleski, Shelby Shelton, Richard Harrison, and Sal Mamusia, 1991 |
Page Views: | 36,051 total · 158/month |
Shared By: | Ian Wolfe on Apr 29, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This route follows the stunning arete feature on the NE side of the Cannibal Boulder. Easy climbing up to the second bolt, where the real fun begins. From here it gets steep and interesting. The crux begins after the third bolt is clipped and includes a few desparate moves to surmount the cock, and a very desparate and kind of scary clip for the 4th bolt. From there, a few airy crimpers lead up to bolted anchors.
This is a wonderful spot to get good climbing shots from the ground if you are a photographer. The arete stands out against the skyline from both sides and the overhanging line looks absolutely awesome. Be sure to bring your core face for the onlookers who frequent the area!
This is a wonderful spot to get good climbing shots from the ground if you are a photographer. The arete stands out against the skyline from both sides and the overhanging line looks absolutely awesome. Be sure to bring your core face for the onlookers who frequent the area!
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