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Routes in Cannibal Crag

A Man in Every Pot S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baseboy S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Baseboy (Bolted Variation) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Caliban S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Caustic Cock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elbows of Mac and Ronnie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fear This S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fuck this Sport (aka Fear this Sport) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Have a Beer with Fear S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ma and Pa Kettle S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mac and Ronnie in Cheese S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Maneater S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Wave Hookers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nipple Fish S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pickled Cock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Save the Heart to Eat Later S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
What's Eating You S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wonderstuff S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
You Are What You Eat T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Todd Swain ('92)
Page Views: 2,443 total · 17/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on Apr 11, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


Small crimps following the left-facing sidepull at the second bolt make-up the crux. The upper climbing eases substantially.


Begin at the right-leaning flake/ramp in front of the leftmost of two similarly sized scrub oak bushes. This route is about 10 feet left of What's Eating You, and climbs the face.


4 bolts to a chain anchor.


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Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
I'm not sure is some holds have chipped off since Brock's book rated this 5.11a, but the holds following the obvious sidepull felt hard for 11a. Apr 11, 2007
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
On 5/19/10, the ASCA replaced the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th bolts on this route. All bolts are 1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece and the anchor hangers were replaced and mussy hooks were added. May 20, 2010
MN norske
MN norske   Henderson
Felt harder than 5.11 through crux. Fun and solid route. Last bolt to anchors is run out making for good whipper. Oct 22, 2013
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Bad crux hold and not an obvious hold to go to from there... felt more like 11c, at least. Would be way harder for short folks. May 29, 2015
Derrick   Bozeman
Was hard for me, thin and vert, but fun, maybe a bit stout at 11a (Handren guide) but would be soft as an 11b, slash grade here feels appropriate. I'm 5'9" and would've been significantly harder were I any shorter. Nov 29, 2015
Jake Thomson
Jake Thomson   Yosemite
I will have to respectfully disagree with above comments. i did nearly all the 5.11's on this rock, thought this one was the substantially easier than the rest. but grades are subjective and that is just my opinion Feb 15, 2016
Brendan Jordan
Brendan Jordan  
Fun little line. I'd also agree on the slash grade, though I think it really depends on the climber. I found this pretty easy and didn't blink at the .11a grade in the guidebook, but my brother (who cruised a few other .11as this trip) thought the crux moves felt harder than anything on Caustic, for example. Either way, if you climb low .11 it's worth hopping on. For the record, I'm 6'2" and my brother is 5'10". Jan 8, 2017
Wolf L
New York, NY
Wolf L   New York, NY
The crux hold is polished and there's little alternatives, making it feels harder than a standard 5.11 at least for me (5'9"). Feb 18, 2018
I would agree with Wolf L, the crux on this route comes when reaching with a right hand to a "crimp" that has turned in to more of a ultra polished pinch then moving off that to a decent left crimp. I could not find another beta that worked and felt this move was harder than some of the 11d cruxes on some in Red Rock. I would definitely give it the grade of 5.11b/c. Im also 5'9" so reaching through was not really an option. Feb 21, 2018
Hyrum, UT
NRobl   Hyrum, UT
I agree with the others here on this one. Felt like at least an 11c move (though I've had an easier time on some 12 moves) in the middle of a 10- route. The second bolt protects the crux well though. Mar 14, 2018

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