Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Todd Swain ('92)
Page Views: 2,547 total · 18/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on Apr 11, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


127 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Small crimps following the left-facing sidepull at the second bolt make-up the crux. The upper climbing eases substantially.

Location

Begin at the right-leaning flake/ramp in front of the leftmost of two similarly sized scrub oak bushes. This route is about 10 feet left of What's Eating You, and climbs the face.

Protection

4 bolts to a chain anchor.

Photos

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Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.11a
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.11a
I'm not sure is some holds have chipped off since Brock's book rated this 5.11a, but the holds following the obvious sidepull felt hard for 11a. Apr 11, 2007
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a/b
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a/b
On 5/19/10, the ASCA replaced the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th bolts on this route. All bolts are 1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece and the anchor hangers were replaced and mussy hooks were added. May 20, 2010
MN norske
Henderson
  5.11b
MN norske   Henderson
  5.11b
Felt harder than 5.11 through crux. Fun and solid route. Last bolt to anchors is run out making for good whipper. Oct 22, 2013
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Bad crux hold and not an obvious hold to go to from there... felt more like 11c, at least. Would be way harder for short folks. May 29, 2015
Derrick
Bozeman
 
Derrick   Bozeman
 
Was hard for me, thin and vert, but fun, maybe a bit stout at 11a (Handren guide) but would be soft as an 11b, slash grade here feels appropriate. I'm 5'9" and would've been significantly harder were I any shorter. Nov 29, 2015
Jake Thomson
Yosemite
Jake Thomson   Yosemite
I will have to respectfully disagree with above comments. i did nearly all the 5.11's on this rock, thought this one was the substantially easier than the rest. but grades are subjective and that is just my opinion Feb 15, 2016
Brendan Jordan
  5.11a/b
Brendan Jordan  
  5.11a/b
Fun little line. I'd also agree on the slash grade, though I think it really depends on the climber. I found this pretty easy and didn't blink at the .11a grade in the guidebook, but my brother (who cruised a few other .11as this trip) thought the crux moves felt harder than anything on Caustic, for example. Either way, if you climb low .11 it's worth hopping on. For the record, I'm 6'2" and my brother is 5'10". Jan 8, 2017
Wolf L
New York, NY
  5.11c
Wolf L   New York, NY
  5.11c
The crux hold is polished and there's little alternatives, making it feels harder than a standard 5.11 at least for me (5'9"). Feb 18, 2018
I would agree with Wolf L, the crux on this route comes when reaching with a right hand to a "crimp" that has turned in to more of a ultra polished pinch then moving off that to a decent left crimp. I could not find another beta that worked and felt this move was harder than some of the 11d cruxes on some in Red Rock. I would definitely give it the grade of 5.11b/c. Im also 5'9" so reaching through was not really an option. Feb 21, 2018
NRobl
Hyrum, UT
NRobl   Hyrum, UT
I agree with the others here on this one. Felt like at least an 11c move (though I've had an easier time on some 12 moves) in the middle of a 10- route. The second bolt protects the crux well though. Mar 14, 2018