Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Sal Mamusia, Paul Van Betten, Shelby Shelton, Richard Harrison ('91)
Page Views: 3,234 total · 23/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on Apr 11, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin .

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55 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

A crimpy face climb that climbs the middle of the boulder. The crux is related to the holds disappearing the higher you go (past the 4th bolt).

Location

It is common to use the same start as Pickled Cock, atop the large raised platform to avoid the petroglyphs. Climb up and right to the first bolt and then begin angling up and left for the rest of the route.

Protection

6 bolts to the chain anchors.

Photos

Seth R
Las Vegas, NV
Seth R   Las Vegas, NV
This would be a very good route if the original bolter put a little more thought into the proper placement of bolts. This seems to be the Cannibal Crag Curse. Decent routes totally marred by sloppy bolting. Oh well... May 3, 2007
This IS a very good route! The first ascent party put plenty of thought into what they considered the "proper placement of bolts" for this route. I just removed an added bolt yesterday (placed lamely before the REAL first bolt). If you don't like the style of the route then don't do it. Placing additional bolts on any established route to satisfy ones' personal preference for safety is unacceptable. If you want to tag the routes at the Cannibal Crag, you're gonna have to sack up a bit! If you're fortunate enough to be there with the Harrisons, I'm sure Richard's fifteen year old daughter Lisa will be happy to waltz up and clip any bolt that may be giving you fits. "Performance with flair or one thats mundane, you get what you give and some get insane". May 18, 2007
Darren in Vegas
Las Vegas, NV
 
Darren in Vegas   Las Vegas, NV
 
I like this route. I think that once you have the route figured out it has a nice sequence, big pulls between decent holds, small crimp moves, and a mantle to keep you honest. As well, it has some excitement close to the road. At no time are you unsafe on this one, yet you have to rock climb to do it. In my opinion it is a worthy route that is under appreciated. Sep 21, 2007
Jeff Hebert
Seattle, WA
  5.12a/b
Jeff Hebert   Seattle, WA
  5.12a/b
This route was right at my limit when I tried it in March. If you're worried about the lead, it's quite easy to lead Baseboy Direct (5.11a) immediately to the left and traverse at the top to set up a top rope. I enjoyed this route very much--it had a series of difficult moves on small edges and slopes. Apr 3, 2009
Matt Kuehl
Las Vegas
 
Matt Kuehl   Las Vegas
 
Fun and challenging line. Felt a bit harder than .12a to me, but it was my first attempt. The moves up to the first bolt are delicate and you certainly wouldn't want to fall before clipping it. All the bolts are spaced out a little but it's plenty safe, just extra spicy. Certainly worth climbing and would be proud onsight for the .12a leader. Sep 25, 2011
This is a superb route. Too short to be mega-classic but still very fun and challenging. Sequence is a little cryptic at first, but once you have it, it flows oh so well.
Balancy slab, good crimps and solid feet, followed by bigger moves to a scary mantel well above the bolt... its all there. So Fun. I'll do it all over again next time. Mar 10, 2014
Michael Dom
  5.12a
Michael Dom  
  5.12a
This was by far the best route I have gotten on at the cannibal. I thought it had all of the elements of a good climb. It was spicy at first, then pumpy and finished technical. Dec 22, 2015
Grant Mercer
Henderson, NV
  5.12a
Grant Mercer   Henderson, NV
  5.12a
Bolt placement seemed fine on this route. SUPER fun, one of my favorite routes so far.

This climb combines a great mix of technical movement and power endurance to secure the redpoint. Highly recommend! Nov 13, 2017