Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Richard Harrison, Paul Van Betten ('92)
Page Views: 5,549 total · 38/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on Apr 11, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


193 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

After the first bolt there a reachy section that is a little sketchy if this is at your limit. The crux for a lot of people comes toward the top as your forearms begin to feel it. There is a nice jug a little above the forth bolt to clip from instead of making the hard clip from the crimps below.

Location

This route climbs the right side of the main arete formed by the North and East faces, immediately to the right and around the corner from Caustic Cock.

Protection

4 bolts and then traverse to the cold shut anchor up and to the right (a little runout and some rope drag, but solid).

Photos

iklimbrocks  
 
First bolt is bad on this route! It's noticeably sticking out of the wall. The rest of the bolts are spinners. The anchor is good. Mar 5, 2010
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.11a
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.11a
every bolt where one might fall on this route is terrible and badly in need of replacing. good line. Mar 29, 2010
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
thanks for the heads up guys, we're aware of this and hope to get out and replace the bolts soon. will update this page when it happens. Mar 29, 2010
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.11a
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.11a
awesome john, glad to see guys taking care of their local areas. drop me a line if you're ever in denver!

-eric Apr 4, 2010
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
On 5/19/10 the ASCA replaced the first three bolts on this route, the first two of which were moved due to rock quality and clipping stance concerns. All the new bolts are 1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece. May 20, 2010
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
The first bolt was moved to the left to facilitate clipping from the left side of the bulge with the right hand. Some folks go up on the right, and I did try to allow for clipping from that side as well, but the rock and stance dictated the bolts position to favor the left side more than the right.

And yeah, 1/2" is standard for replacement here, but to be honest, in that rock, i would have preferred even bigger!

Edit: It has come to our attention that the first bolt on this route is a little high- it was placed there in order to prevent hitting the slab if one were to fall at the crux. A stick clip is recommended for shorter people who dont feel comfortable with the opening moves. Jun 13, 2010
Brian Weinstein
  5.11-
Brian Weinstein  
  5.11-
There is definitely some commitment involved in getting to the first bolt. The route somehow flows well with the bolting placements. If pushing the grade heed John's advice. Apr 27, 2011
Chaz-O
  5.11c
Chaz-O  
  5.11c
I climbed this route with 2 different variations for the crux sequence. Both sequences felt like 11c to me, so I'm not sure why this is rated 11a. Nonetheless, it's a great climb and I'd recommend it. The bolting was fine for me. Apr 30, 2012
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
I think this thing shed a key jug as you pull onto the overhanging headwall recently- I've watched some folks do it recently and it looked way harder than I remember it being. I remember the crux being passing the first bolt and then it was cruiser jugs to the chains. May 1, 2012
Derek Kvedar
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b/c
Derek Kvedar   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b/c
Really cool route. With the broken jug, it feels more like 11b using the holds on the left and 11c using the crimpers straight up past the third bolt. Apr 19, 2013
Weston L
NEVADASTAN
Weston L   NEVADASTAN
Saw a sizeable hold fall off of the upper portion of this route today. Unsure of how much that it has impacted the climb, however, this thing was probably the size of a roofing shingle Oct 4, 2013
redlude97
  5.11b
redlude97  
  5.11b
Climbed it this past week and it felt harder at the top than Caustic, but I never climbed it before the hold broke. So both are probably 11b/c now Mar 26, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Sequential, but felt 11a. Holds are pretty good. Caustic felt harder, but of similar quality. May 29, 2015
Simon W
Nowhere Land
Simon W   Nowhere Land
No longer 11a.

Pretty solid 11+ to onsight due to the sucker holds and sequential nature of the upper crux. Solid mid 11 even once you have it figured out.

The headwall crux is short. Climbs more like two tricky boulder problems than a route in its current state. Not bad nonetheless just don't expect a gimme. Jul 3, 2015
Derrick
Bozeman
  5.11a
Derrick   Bozeman
  5.11a
Didn't feel harder than 11a at all to me, the top is sustained making fourth clip pumpy but the climbing is easy. Really great climb. Nov 29, 2015
Michael Dom
  5.11a
Michael Dom  
  5.11a
I wasn't a huge fan of the committing move where you flop onto the sloping mantle. Yuck. Dec 22, 2015
Matt Enlow
Wyoming
  5.11c
Matt Enlow   Wyoming
  5.11c
I think Simon W's on point (except for the sucker holds bit. Didn't see those). Was harder than Caustic Cock and Baseboy Direct to me. Oct 28, 2016
Andrew G
San Diego, CA
  5.11b/c
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
  5.11b/c
Felt harder than Caustic to me. Definitely wouldn't want to fall pulling the awkward (but fun!) move onto the pedestal after the first bolt. Enjoyable route that's basically two very different boulder problems. Nov 6, 2016
Kalvin
  5.11a
Kalvin  
  5.11a
I thought it was easier than Caustic. Weird bottom, but then the overhung section is very juggy. Nov 20, 2017