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Routes in Cannibal Crag

A Man in Every Pot S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baseboy S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Baseboy (Bolted Variation) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Caliban S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Caustic Cock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elbows of Mac and Ronnie S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fear This S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fuck this Sport (aka Fear this Sport) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Have a Beer with Fear S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ma and Pa Kettle S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mac and Ronnie in Cheese S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Maneater S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Wave Hookers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nipple Fish S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pickled Cock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Save the Heart to Eat Later S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
What's Eating You S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wonderstuff S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
You Are What You Eat T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,700 total, 16/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on Jan 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route climbs the left-leaning cracks on the south-east side of Cannibal Crag. Start in the left-most crack, merge with the second crack and shoot for the top of the boulder. Alternatively, you can traverse left near the top to the cold shuts on Caliban.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

dnoB ekiM
  5.4
dnoB ekiM  
  5.4
I did this route as my first route in Red Rock as a solo (after soloing regularly in the Peak District in England) when I first moved to Las Vegas in 1997...the top out is the crux. I remember standing there for about 15 minutes...wondering if I would make it. My last solo! Oct 18, 2009
MariaZ
  5.3
MariaZ  
  5.3
I did the 5.9 variation by starting to the right of the crack. It was a fun little move to get onto the wall.

Thought the rest of it was a little easier than 5.4.

Definitely bring along a 5. I had a 6 and could have placed it. Jul 17, 2017
Ben Sherwin
  5.5
Ben Sherwin  
  5.5
Climbed the crack this weekend. It wasn't hard necessarily, but awkward. Second trad lead, took a fall from the lower middle section when a foot slipped, piece held :-). Not as easy to protect as Cover My Buttress on Panty Wall, my first lead. Thus giving it a 5.5. Traversed to the bolts - was a fun couple move traverse. Mar 2, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
On 5/19/10, the ASCA replaced the anchor bolts on this route and equipped the new anchor with mussy hooks. Both bolts are 1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece. May 20, 2010
There are two bolts at the top of the formation that can be used to top-rope both Caliban and You Are What You Eat. The cold-shuts should be avoided...

Jason Jan 8, 2010
Chris D
the couch
  5.4
Chris D   the couch
  5.4
Handren calls this route "Cannibal Crack"

I agree that it feels like a sandbag, but I think that it's mostly just really awkward. While I like this sort of climb, I wouldn't want to do similar climbs all day. Still, good practice to get in something different.

We stopped at the anchors at the top of Caliban here and were going to TR that route until we saw the anchors. I don't even know what they were...two spinner metal "hooks," both loose, both worn from rope pulls, both wide open at the top. I backed them up with a cam to bring up the second and was a little sketched rapping from them. Jan 3, 2010
Greg Gibson
Napa, Ca
 
Greg Gibson   Napa, Ca
 
found the route hard to lead but good rock for sandstone.

I love this formation with all the routes on it.

This is a great area to take a noob out to learn to place gear while still being on the deck. Oct 22, 2008
CalebSimpson  
5.6
Definitely harder than, 5.4. I would say 5.6. I am new to trad, and so far have found every route rated 5.4-5.5 (in Red Rocks) sandbagged. I felt they were all harder. Apr 4, 2008
chris t
cle elum,wa
 
chris t   cle elum,wa
 
Route seemed a little tougher than 5.4, (This was climbed to the top) especially compared to Abbey Rd. Was still fun for my second gear lead! Oct 22, 2007
I did this route with my friend Michelle last week. Excellent beginner lead. A little more difficult than 5.4 at the top but the holds are all there. Apr 17, 2007