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Routes in Cannibal Crag

A Man in Every Pot S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baseboy S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Baseboy (Bolted Variation) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Caliban S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Caustic Cock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elbows of Mac and Ronnie S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fear This S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fuck this Sport (aka Fear this Sport) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Have a Beer with Fear S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ma and Pa Kettle S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mac and Ronnie in Cheese S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Maneater S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Wave Hookers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nipple Fish S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pickled Cock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Save the Heart to Eat Later S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
What's Eating You S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wonderstuff S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
You Are What You Eat T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Sal Mamusia, Paul Van Betten; 1993
Page Views: 2,655 total · 16/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on Jan 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route climbs Cannibal Crag about 20 feet to the left of the left-leaning crack on the south-east side of the rock. Climb past three bolts to a cold shut anchor. The most obvious line takes you quite far right past the first bolt and then you have to swing back left to the second. Named for a moon of Uranus. A little spicy.

Protection

Three bolts

Photos

alex carey
  5.8 R
alex carey  
  5.8 R
typical josh runout. if you are solid at the grade and have a good head on you'll be ok. I think its getting a bomb from a lot of people because its runout...1.5 stars. A little bit of searching can make the route a lot easier. Mar 27, 2017
Ming
  5.8+ R
Ming  
  5.8+ R
I did this back in 2007 and it was the most gut wrench thing I have ever done at that point. Solid R for sure even thought it's easy 5th class once you get past the steep part that lasts only about 10 or so feet past the second bolt (thought ground fall is very likely at that point - and you will deck past that point). I did this when I was barely a 5.9 - 5.10a lead in the gym so it was one of my proudest leads. Feb 24, 2012
Erik Campos
Fort Bragg, NC
  5.8+ R
Erik Campos   Fort Bragg, NC
  5.8+ R
Not many protection is provided. Me and my son were all over these one. Watch out for iguanas on this route, almost grab one on one of the holds after the first bolt. Jun 14, 2011
Jiana ten Brinke
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.8+ R
Jiana ten Brinke   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.8+ R
This route is wandering and run out. The holds are crimpy and hard to find at times. The last bolt (#3) is roughly two thirds of the way up the climb and after this the upper run out section is easy slab climbing, but a fall here would be serious or deadly (hence the rating of R/X). I would avoid leading this climb if you are a beginner. Mar 16, 2011
Ben Sherwin
  5.8+ R
Ben Sherwin  
  5.8+ R
Wife, friend, and I did this route this weekend on TR. We Trad lead the 5.4 Cannibal Crack and dropped top rope. On top rope it was a very fun climb IMHO. Friend's book called it Trad due to it's distance from that bolt line, but I didn't see anything great for pro except where others have mentioned that run-out section. Mar 2, 2011
Eric-D
Las Vegas, nv
Eric-D   Las Vegas, nv
I have to agree with most everyone else. This route is not worth doing. There are much better routes to do without all the frustration. Oct 6, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8+ R
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8+ R
On 5/19/10, the ASCA replaced the anchor bolts and the last pro bolt on this route and equipped the anchor with mussy hooks. All new bolts are 1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece. May 20, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8+ R
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8+ R
a .5 or .75 camalot would partially protect the upper run-out...but to be honest, this one really isnt worth doing anyway- not a very good climb by any standard. Apr 15, 2010
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.8 PG13
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.8 PG13
Not a recommended climb for a 5.8 leader but an engaging outing worth doing if you are in the area. You could take small cams for above the bolts but if you can climb the bolted part you ain't gonna fall from the boltless part. Jun 1, 2008
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
 
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
 
Like most here have said, it wanders from the start (out right and back left....then runout). One of the few minority runout climbs....with a possible visit to the hospital if you're not capable of sending the grade. Better 5.8/5.9's around Red Rocks. Aug 21, 2007
gilbert.2003
Burke, VA
  5.8+ R
gilbert.2003   Burke, VA
  5.8+ R
A fun climb; just don't plan on climbing straight up. Holds are good but you have to wander to get to the bolts and it is a runout to the anchors. Apr 9, 2007
Ian Wolfe
Fayetteville, NC
  5.8+ R
Ian Wolfe   Fayetteville, NC
  5.8+ R
I was really not a big fan of this route. It wanders all over the place and the climbing, despite being only 5.8, is fairly precarious. There are only 3 bolts on the route, not 4 like Roxanna's book says. On the whole, just not enjoyable. There is a much better 5.8 on the other side of the boulder. Apr 28, 2006
harmonydoc
  5.8+ R
harmonydoc  
  5.8+ R
Led this last weekend. Very wandery, the climb traverses away from the bolt line a lot. I was expecting 4 bolts, I only found 3. Managed to get a green Camalot in a horizontal after bolt #3, but still ran it way out to the top. The terrain was moderate enough that I didn't feel too sketched, but I made the people watching from the ground nervous! Decent climb if you are OK with runouts and are comfortable at the grade, otherwise I wouldn't recommend it. Mar 27, 2006
Don't feel bad if have to back down on leading this one.It's sick!

It took three of us to lead it about a year and a half ago.
Sarah clipped the first bolt, I clipped the second and poor J.C. clipped the third (sorry J.C. for telling you there were two bolts in that runout section) It was funny to hear you cuss your way to the top though. Great job! It was on J.C.'s birthday too! Caliban, a birthday gift from Sarah and I. Mar 18, 2006

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