Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten, Richard Harrison, and Sal Mamusia, July 1991
Page Views: 10,415 total · 72/month
Shared By: Seth R on May 3, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This climb starts off same start as Wonderstuff but traverse right on slopey rail over to second bolt, then straight up "bee-hive" looking rock (cruxy) to big moves on jugs. Best route at Cannibal.

Location

start just right of Wonderstuff

Protection

bolts
J W
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
On 5/14/10, the ASCA replaced the 3rd and last bolt on this route. The 3rd bolt was moved slightly up and left from its old position. This move was done with help from two folks who have been working the route and felt the new position was a good one. The final bolt was moved somewhat right to a better spot for the bolt, but still should be easily clipped off the jugs below. Both new bolts are 1/2" x 3.5 5-piece.

On 5/19/10, the ASCA finished work on this route by equipping the anchors with mussy hooks. May 14, 2010
Chaz-O
  5.12c
Chaz-O  
  5.12c
Short but jam packed with action. Obvious moves. I'd recommend a stick clip if you have one. Otherwise, you can clip a low bolt from the ground, but it may not be high enough to provide real safety. When I did this route I clipped the low bolt, jugged up to the ledge, clipped the real first bolt, and came back down to start the route from the traverse with protection. Apr 30, 2012
Grant Mercer
Henderson, NV
  5.12c
Grant Mercer   Henderson, NV
  5.12c
Short, sweet, and to the point. Really awesome climb with a ton of different beta for the crux. Definitely one of those 'must-do' routes if you like bouldery in your face type climbs.

Spoiler video: youtube.com/watch?v=weyvblM…

P.S. if you stick clip the second (recommended), make sure you still clip the first for your belayers sake unless you want them getting a face full of your feet when you whip on the crux May 8, 2018