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Routes in Cannibal Crag

A Man in Every Pot S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baseboy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Baseboy (Bolted Variation) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Caliban S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Caustic Cock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elbows of Mac and Ronnie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fear This S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fuck this Sport (aka Fear this Sport) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Have a Beer with Fear S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ma and Pa Kettle S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mac and Ronnie in Cheese S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Maneater S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Wave Hookers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nipple Fish S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pickled Cock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Save the Heart to Eat Later S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
What's Eating You S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wonderstuff S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
You Are What You Eat T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Todd Swain ('92)
Page Views: 4,342 total · 32/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on Apr 11, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The left handed crimp off of the left-facing jug flake near the bottom is definitely harder than 5.9 as is suggested by the Swain guidebook. The rest of the route is mellow.

Location

About 10 feet left of A Man in Every Pot, and in front of the rightmost of two similarly-sized scrub oak bushes.

Protection

3 bolts (I think a 4th was added after the Brock book's printing) up to the chain anchors.

Photos

Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
 
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
 
I actually enjoyed this route quite a bit....especially the upper moves; fairly continuous. Had to do it again. Aug 21, 2007
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
 
On 5/19/10 the ASCA replaced the first bolt and the anchor on this route. In addition, mussy hooks were added to the anchor. All bolts are 1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece. May 20, 2010
mike kirschbaum
  5.10a
mike kirschbaum  
  5.10a
Fun route a little ran from the last bolt top anchor, but really fun. Nov 9, 2012
the professor
  5.10a/b
the professor  
  5.10a/b
There is a fourth bolt, eliminating the formerly run-out finish. The first bolt is rather high; suggest either stick-clip or bring a TCU for the crack prior to the bolt. Mar 17, 2015
Jayson Nissen
Corvallis, OR
Jayson Nissen   Corvallis, OR
I would also call this 10 a/b. the move after the first bolt and to the fourth bolt were much harder than the 9+ rating led me to expect. I thought it was much harder than the 10a (Handren) to the right.

Fun. I also thought the first bolt was quite easy to get to, though high. Mar 11, 2016
Andrew G
San Diego, CA
 
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
 
First bolt is definitely high, but it's like 5.5 jugs getting there. Nov 6, 2016
phylp
Upland
  5.10a/b
phylp   Upland
  5.10a/b
I thought the crux was reachy and that added to the difficulty for me, hence 10a/b. Oct 23, 2017
Natalie Nicole
San Francisco, CA
Natalie Nicole   San Francisco, CA
I echo the sentiments below. If Mac and Ronnie in Cheese is considered 5.10a in the book, then this should be at least 5.10b by the same standards. The crux was reachy and the holds a bit awkward for 5.9, maybe something broke off since the route was originally graded? Dec 2, 2017

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