PRINT: Rock Climb Caliban, Red Rocks

Caliban

5.8+ R, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 1.5 from 153 votes
FA: Sal Mamusia, Paul Van Betten; 1993
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (01) Calico Basin > Cannibal Crag

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

This route climbs Cannibal Crag about 20 feet to the left of the left-leaning crack on the south-east side of the rock. Climb past three bolts to a cold shut anchor. The most obvious line takes you quite far right past the first bolt and then you have to swing back left to the second. Named for a moon of Uranus. A little spicy.

Protection

Three bolts. Optional #0.2-0.5 cam placements above last bolt.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Caliban

The boy lowering off. March 2021.

The boy on this route.

The wandery Caliban. Thought it was pretty fun.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
Vegas

Don't feel bad if have to back down on leading this one.It's sick!

It took three of us to lead it about a year and a half ago.
Sarah clipped the first bolt, I clipped the second and poor J.C. clipped the third (sorry J.C. for telling you there were two bolts in that runout section) It was funny to hear you cuss your way to the top though. Great job! It was on J.C.'s birthday too! Caliban, a birthday gift from Sarah and I. Mar 18, 2006

harmonydoc

5.8+ R

Led this last weekend. Very wandery, the climb traverses away from the bolt line a lot. I was expecting 4 bolts, I only found 3. Managed to get a green Camalot in a horizontal after bolt #3, but still ran it way out to the top. The terrain was moderate enough that I didn't feel too sketched, but I made the people watching from the ground nervous! Decent climb if you are OK with runouts and are comfortable at the grade, otherwise I wouldn't recommend it. Mar 27, 2006

Ian Wolfe
Fayetteville, NC

5.8+ R

I was really not a big fan of this route. It wanders all over the place and the climbing, despite being only 5.8, is fairly precarious. There are only 3 bolts on the route, not 4 like Roxanna's book says. On the whole, just not enjoyable. There is a much better 5.8 on the other side of the boulder. Apr 28, 2006

Ed Gilbert
Burke, VA

5.8+ R

A fun climb; just don't plan on climbing straight up. Holds are good but you have to wander to get to the bolts and it is a runout to the anchors. Apr 9, 2007

Dave Daly
Kernville, CA

Like most here have said, it wanders from the start (out right and back left....then runout). One of the few minority runout climbs....with a possible visit to the hospital if you're not capable of sending the grade. Better 5.8/5.9's around Red Rocks. Aug 21, 2007

Jesse Morehouse
CO

5.8 PG13

Not a recommended climb for a 5.8 leader but an engaging outing worth doing if you are in the area. You could take small cams for above the bolts but if you can climb the bolted part you ain't gonna fall from the boltless part. Jun 1, 2008

Eric-D
Las Vegas, nv

I have to agree with most everyone else. This route is not worth doing. There are much better routes to do without all the frustration. Oct 6, 2010

Ben Sherwin

5.8+ R

Wife, friend, and I did this route this weekend on TR. We Trad lead the 5.4 Cannibal Crack and dropped top rope. On top rope it was a very fun climb IMHO. Friend's book called it Trad due to it's distance from that bolt line, but I didn't see anything great for pro except where others have mentioned that run-out section. Mar 2, 2011

Jiana ten Brinke
Santa Barbara, CA

5.8+ R

This route is wandering and run out. The holds are crimpy and hard to find at times. The last bolt (#3) is roughly two thirds of the way up the climb and after this the upper run out section is easy slab climbing, but a fall here would be serious or deadly (hence the rating of R/X). I would avoid leading this climb if you are a beginner. Mar 16, 2011

Erik Campos
Fort Bragg, NC

5.8+ R

Not many protection is provided. Me and my son were all over these one. Watch out for iguanas on this route, almost grab one on one of the holds after the first bolt. Jun 14, 2011

Ming

5.8+ R

I did this back in 2007 and it was the most gut wrench thing I have ever done at that point. Solid R for sure even thought it's easy 5th class once you get past the steep part that lasts only about 10 or so feet past the second bolt (thought ground fall is very likely at that point - and you will deck past that point). I did this when I was barely a 5.9 - 5.10a lead in the gym so it was one of my proudest leads. Feb 24, 2012

alex carey
Los Angeles, CA

5.8 R

typical josh runout. if you are solid at the grade and have a good head on you'll be ok. I think its getting a bomb from a lot of people because its runout...1.5 stars. A little bit of searching can make the route a lot easier. Mar 27, 2017

Ryan Marsters
Golden, CO

You can place a BD 0.2-0.5 in a horizontal roughly halfway between the last bolt and the anchors. At this point, the climbing is a little easier, but certainly (unnecessarily) mental for a sport lead. Feb 28, 2018

Mike Ferrell
Boston, MA

This route gets a lot of hate, but I'll always remember it. End of day after climbing tougher climbs on the boulder, this is a fun route if you want to keep climbing- spicy but not challenging (assuming you're climbing 10s or up). The runout made this a memorable and fun route May 7, 2018

Jacob Kennedy
Houston, TX

As others have said, the route is very runout for a sport climb. High potential for ground fall if leading. I led the 5.4 trad route to the right and set up a top rope on this route. As a top rope, I thought it was a really fun and challenging route. I am used to limestone so I thought it was tough for the grade, but I think it is worth a climb on top rope for sure. Apr 21, 2019

Dylan Harris
Bariloche, Rio Negro, AR

Spicy for sure but thankfully easier the higher you go. Had I known in advance that one slip near the top would be a ground fall I would not have lead this. Beware. Nov 3, 2019

James Jen
San Diego, CA

I liked the route. Spicy and adventurous. I would give it three stars if the path between first and second bolt is more intuitive and natural.

Kind of echo'ing the useful comments:

- After first bolt, wander to the right to step up before wandering back left to the second bolt
- After third bolt, I found two placements for microcams. I used #0.2, #0.3, #0.4. With this, its not run-out and deck potential is eliminated. Oct 31, 2021

Tracy Martin
Las Vegas, NV

There is now a 4th bolt, cutting the upper runout in half. Apr 22, 2023

John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV

5.8+

Weak sauce to add a bolt to a long pre-existing Red Rock route. I would not count on it being there for very long. Apr 22, 2023

Evan Powers
Murfreesboro, TN

5.10a

November 2023, this route had 4 bolts. Felt safe, slight runout to chains but nothing to warrant the "PG13" or "R" safety concerns. For what it's worth, I thought this climb was FANTASTIC. Dec 6, 2023