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Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Left Side

Aqualung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcy Farcy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bluebeard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bocomaru T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buccaneer, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Captain Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Exposure T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Double Exposure Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Frustration T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ham Sandwich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hernia - Direct Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hernia, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pass Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pirate, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Swashbuckler T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sword of Damocles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winter Solstice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Charlie Raymond and Larry Reynolds, October 1966
Page Views: 4,751 total, 33/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Description

This prominent chimney is near the left end of the Buttress of Cracks. The first pitch (5.7) is a steep, well-protected chimney with a crux overhang at the top. The second pitch (5.6) is a slick, unpleasant chimney. It finishes at the top of the buttress, allowing you to scramble off.

Protection

standard rack, with a few medium to large pieces

Photos

Fernando Cal
Long Beach, CA
  5.8+
Fernando Cal   Long Beach, CA
  5.8+
Fun route (after the fact). Crux was the start for me. Slipping on that start can lead to a not-so-fun fall. Protects well, but was definitely the toughest 5.8 climb i've done (maybe because I was a bit rusty). More challenging than Hernia on the right. Aug 21, 2017
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8+ PG13
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.8+ PG13
Brilliant in retrospect, though a bit of a fight while you're actually doing it. The start of pitch 1 would get HVS 5b in UK - tricky but with good small wires, then maybe HVS 4c for the top section of the pitch which is unlikely and intimidating, though relatively easy once you commit to it. Oct 3, 2014
Ryan-G Gittins
San Diego
 
Ryan-G Gittins   San Diego
 
Really unique and exhilarating route. Crux is definitely down low, but pulling the horn is by far the psychological crux with your gear down low. I left some of the small gear with my partner...bad call cause you'll want it up high too. Probably will be a rude - exciting, if you have the gear - awakening, if you're breaking into the grade. I was feeling pretty good after doing El Camino the day before than was summarily humbled once I got on this. Oct 14, 2013
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9
We just did the first pitch and then traverse over to the rap anchors.

The start seemed all of 5.9 to me, with fiddly gear to boot. I had to streeeetch to get a spot for a small offset nut from the opening feet. And the spot required some cleaning with the nut tool just for bonus thrill.

The climb protected well past that up until the roof, though stock up on small to midsize nuts as they seemed to be the ticket.

I found the exit move pretty damn thrilling with the gear way down below your feet. Wouldn't want to fall. Oct 4, 2013
Tradiban
  5.8+
Tradiban  
  5.8+
Pretty well protected, this took some thinking to get through. Definitely harder than Hernia. I didn't find the finishing chimney slick at all, just a little strenuous laybacking. Rap off Insomnia with a 70m to get back down quick. Mar 25, 2013
SCherry
Boulder, CO
  5.8+ PG13
SCherry   Boulder, CO
  5.8+ PG13
Old school 5.8 rating for sure. The entry moves are the crux and the gear is super tricky here. I found BD C3's to work best and its nice to have 2 red C3's and a purple here. Anyone who rates this 5.7 is sandbagging. It was one of the harder 5.8 pitches I've ever led and I've climbed at old school trad areas all over the country. For comparison "The Hernia" which is also rated 5.8 is much easier, and less sustained.

Any truth to the rumor that a hold at the "nose" of the alligator broke off making that move up there harder? On the onsight that move felt every bit 5.9 and a good distance between your pieces with a nasty fall back into the funnel of the chimney a potential. Apr 3, 2011
fun route May 9, 2010