Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Charlie Raymond and Larry Reynolds, October 1966
Page Views: 5,047 total · 32/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This prominent chimney is near the left end of the Buttress of Cracks. The first pitch (5.7) is a steep, well-protected chimney with a crux overhang at the top. The second pitch (5.6) is a slick, unpleasant chimney. It finishes at the top of the buttress, allowing you to scramble off.


standard rack, with a few medium to large pieces


fun route May 9, 2010
Boulder, CO
  5.8+ PG13
SCherry   Boulder, CO
  5.8+ PG13
Old school 5.8 rating for sure. The entry moves are the crux and the gear is super tricky here. I found BD C3's to work best and its nice to have 2 red C3's and a purple here. Anyone who rates this 5.7 is sandbagging. It was one of the harder 5.8 pitches I've ever led and I've climbed at old school trad areas all over the country. For comparison "The Hernia" which is also rated 5.8 is much easier, and less sustained.

Any truth to the rumor that a hold at the "nose" of the alligator broke off making that move up there harder? On the onsight that move felt every bit 5.9 and a good distance between your pieces with a nasty fall back into the funnel of the chimney a potential. Apr 3, 2011
Pretty well protected, this took some thinking to get through. Definitely harder than Hernia. I didn't find the finishing chimney slick at all, just a little strenuous laybacking. Rap off Insomnia with a 70m to get back down quick. Mar 25, 2013
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
We just did the first pitch and then traverse over to the rap anchors.

The start seemed all of 5.9 to me, with fiddly gear to boot. I had to streeeetch to get a spot for a small offset nut from the opening feet. And the spot required some cleaning with the nut tool just for bonus thrill.

The climb protected well past that up until the roof, though stock up on small to midsize nuts as they seemed to be the ticket.

I found the exit move pretty damn thrilling with the gear way down below your feet. Wouldn't want to fall. Oct 4, 2013
Ryan Gittins
San Diego
Ryan Gittins   San Diego
Really unique and exhilarating route. Crux is definitely down low, but pulling the horn is by far the psychological crux with your gear down low. I left some of the small gear with my partner...bad call cause you'll want it up high too. Probably will be a rude - exciting, if you have the gear - awakening, if you're breaking into the grade. I was feeling pretty good after doing El Camino the day before than was summarily humbled once I got on this. Oct 14, 2013
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8+ PG13
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.8+ PG13
Brilliant in retrospect, though a bit of a fight while you're actually doing it. The start of pitch 1 would get HVS 5b in UK - tricky but with good small wires, then maybe HVS 4c for the top section of the pitch which is unlikely and intimidating, though relatively easy once you commit to it. Oct 3, 2014
Fernando Cal
Fernando Cal   CA, UT
Fun route (after the fact). Crux was the start for me. Slipping on that start can lead to a not-so-fun fall. Protects well, but was definitely the toughest 5.8 climb i've done (maybe because I was a bit rusty). More challenging than Hernia on the right. Aug 21, 2017
Oliver Cassels
Ogden, Ut
Oliver Cassels   Ogden, Ut
The start of pitch 1 can be the crux if you try to climb the crack straight in. Use the face holds just left of the crack to make it 5.7. Jul 2, 2018