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Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Left Side

Aqualung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcy Farcy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bluebeard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bocomaru T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buccaneer, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Captain Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Exposure T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Double Exposure Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Frustration T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ham Sandwich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hernia - Direct Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hernia, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pass Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pirate, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Swashbuckler T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sword of Damocles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winter Solstice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: J. Gosling and Larry Harrell, March 1968
Page Views: 1,759 total, 12/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the third crack to the right of the Captain Hook chimney. The "sword" (loose flake in the crack) that gave the route its name is gone. It is a mediocre crack and chimney route. To descend, walk right to a tree and rappel 160' to the ground.

Protection

standard rack

Photos

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Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
 
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
 
Never a line for this climb. I think this was my first 5.9 lead. I've done it twice and think it's a pretty interesting route. It also gives you easy access to the super-anchor on top of Captain Hook, Passtime, and Frustration. Apr 28, 2016
dnaiscool  
 
When I led this route in '85 the "sword" was loose and dangling right in the way, there was no bolt, and I was sporting that flashy lycra we were all (well...a lot of us) were wearing back then. The slippery nature of my skin-tight French-style pants made the thing feel like greased .11d! I was twitten shinkies as I scummed up that "five nine" groove in my old school EB's. I never went back, but I do recall marveling at the "Potato Chip" flake that presents itself near the top...such a cool thing to climb: I even drew it into my topo for the route, right along with "POS". Mar 22, 2015
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
armand rollice   rancho cucamonga
The Sword is an excellent climb. The start has delicate moves protected by small gear. The chimney, not to difficult o/w is great, use chicken wing left side in. This climb has everything! Sep 9, 2013
Ian Z
Los Angeles, CA
 
Ian Z   Los Angeles, CA
 
In my opinion a cooler climb than the higher rated "Hernia" climb to the right. Sep 2, 2013
Tradiban
  5.9
Tradiban  
  5.9
Thank god for the bolt! Hip scumming appeared to work best in the chimney. Mar 25, 2013
mmurduff Mic  
 
Very thought provoking. Used heal toe smearing in the flared chimney. Exiting the Chimney was the Crux in my opinion. Jul 11, 2009
Carl A
brooklyn, ny
 
Carl A   brooklyn, ny
 
That chimney was a hoot. Bring your offwidth technique to this party. May 4, 2009
Michael Ybarra
on the road
 
Michael Ybarra   on the road
 
I enjoyed this a lot more than Hernia, which I thought had only a single interesting move. Sword had several places where you had to think a bit, which I don't mind doing now and then. Plus the huge belay ledge on top was wonderfully shady and had a great view. Jul 1, 2008
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
This was an intereting climb with hard moves right at the start and then in the flared chimney. A bolt there protects the awkward moves. Definitely worth doing! Jun 8, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
Not a standout but it has some intriguing moves in the flare. Not a bomb, in fact you could do much worse. Jan 28, 2006