Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: J. Gosling and Larry Harrell, March 1968
Page Views: 1,864 total · 12/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This is the third crack to the right of the Captain Hook chimney. The "sword" (loose flake in the crack) that gave the route its name is gone. It is a mediocre crack and chimney route. To descend, walk right to a tree and rappel 160' to the ground.


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C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Not a standout but it has some intriguing moves in the flare. Not a bomb, in fact you could do much worse. Jan 28, 2006
Paul Rezucha
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
This was an intereting climb with hard moves right at the start and then in the flared chimney. A bolt there protects the awkward moves. Definitely worth doing! Jun 8, 2006
Michael Ybarra
on the road
Michael Ybarra   on the road
I enjoyed this a lot more than Hernia, which I thought had only a single interesting move. Sword had several places where you had to think a bit, which I don't mind doing now and then. Plus the huge belay ledge on top was wonderfully shady and had a great view. Jul 1, 2008
Carl A
brooklyn, ny
Carl A   brooklyn, ny
That chimney was a hoot. Bring your offwidth technique to this party. May 4, 2009
mmurduff Mic  
Very thought provoking. Used heal toe smearing in the flared chimney. Exiting the Chimney was the Crux in my opinion. Jul 11, 2009
Thank god for the bolt! Hip scumming appeared to work best in the chimney. Mar 25, 2013
Ian Z
Los Angeles, CA
Ian Z   Los Angeles, CA
In my opinion a cooler climb than the higher rated "Hernia" climb to the right. Sep 2, 2013
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
armand rollice   rancho cucamonga
The Sword is an excellent climb. The start has delicate moves protected by small gear. The chimney, not to difficult o/w is great, use chicken wing left side in. This climb has everything! Sep 9, 2013
When I led this route in '85 the "sword" was loose and dangling right in the way, there was no bolt, and I was sporting that flashy lycra we were all (well...a lot of us) were wearing back then. The slippery nature of my skin-tight French-style pants made the thing feel like greased .11d! I was twitten shinkies as I scummed up that "five nine" groove in my old school EB's. I never went back, but I do recall marveling at the "Potato Chip" flake that presents itself near the top...such a cool thing to climb: I even drew it into my topo for the route, right along with "POS". Mar 22, 2015
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
Never a line for this climb. I think this was my first 5.9 lead. I've done it twice and think it's a pretty interesting route. It also gives you easy access to the super-anchor on top of Captain Hook, Passtime, and Frustration. Apr 28, 2016