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Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Left Side

Aqualung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcy Farcy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bluebeard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bocomaru T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buccaneer, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Captain Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Exposure T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Double Exposure Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Frustration T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ham Sandwich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hernia - Direct Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hernia, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pass Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pirate, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Swashbuckler T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sword of Damocles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winter Solstice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jim Hoagland & Dick Bird, 1980's
Page Views: 203 total, 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 7, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Clip the first bolt of Winter Solstice and then move left to reach the start of a left-facing flake system, shared with Club Sandwich and Bacon Bits, which curves up and left to join The Hernia at it's roof. Finish up via Hernia and use that route's anchors.

Essentially a slightly harder, alternate start to The Hernia that offers some good climbing along thin flakes as you stop to wiggle in gear. Worth doing if you've done The Hernia and seek more of a challenge.

Location

Located on the far right side of the Buttress of Cracks, just to the left of Arcy Farcy, the right-most bolted route here.

Protection

1 bolt (3/8"), gear to 3" including some thin stuff, bolted anchor/rap (100')

Photos

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Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
  5.10b PG13
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
  5.10b PG13
Led this thing recently. Kind of an interesting route. Some DFU moves getting to the first bolt, then a cruxy traverse left to the flake on Razor Games. An orange Metolius fits perfectly near the top of the flake, where the flake is most solid. You can then step up to clip a bolt on Razor Games before moving left again towards Hernia. I led it with nothing bigger than a 0.75 C4. Anything bigger would be for the Hernia part, which is trivial compared to the climbing that got you there, and can still be protected with smaller gear. Jun 3, 2016
dnaiscool  
 
Actually, Winter Solstice clips the first bolt of this route, because Ham Sandwich went in before its harder cousin to the right...just sayin'...you know, keeping the historical narrative alive. Mar 22, 2015