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Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Left Side

Aqualung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcy Farcy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bluebeard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bocomaru T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buccaneer, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Captain Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Exposure T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Double Exposure Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Frustration T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ham Sandwich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hernia - Direct Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hernia, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pass Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pirate, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Swashbuckler T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sword of Damocles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winter Solstice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FA: Bob and Yvonne Gaines - 1987 FFA: Darrell Hensel - 1989
Page Views: 1,060 total, 9/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 9, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start on the left leaning flake (5.7) just left of the Captain Hook start. Continue in the shallow flakes (4" piece) to their end, and make a few moves (10b) to obtain the upper crack. Gear protects the crack until it thins down into seams. Two bolts protect climbing up the seams (12a). A small cam may be placed between the bolts. End at the Pirate belay.

Location

Just right of The Pirate.

Protection

Bolts, thin gear up to one 4" piece. Small cams useful.

Photos

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Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
Haha Aug 4, 2015
I think the holds are about the same as when the route was put up. I repeated it just recently and didn't find it much different from what it was originally. Grades are subjective at best. Jul 9, 2008
C Miller
CA
  5.12b
C Miller   CA  
  5.12b
This seems harder than other 5.12a routes in the area, perhaps some of the tiny edges have flaked off?

Nevertheless, a great pitch with thin and technical moves up high at the bolts. Jul 9, 2008