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Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Left Side

Aqualung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcy Farcy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bluebeard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bocomaru T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buccaneer, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Captain Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Exposure T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1
Double Exposure Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Frustration T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ham Sandwich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hernia - Direct Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hernia, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pass Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pirate, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Swashbuckler T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sword of Damocles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winter Solstice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
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Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Paul Gleason, Lee Harrell, and Keith Leaman, March 1968
Page Views: 441 total · 3/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006 with updates from Keith Leaman
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This climb follows the first crack system to the right of the prominent Captain Hook chimney. The climbing is hand jams and crux finger jams. The easiest descent is to walk right to a tree and rappel 160' to the ground.


standard rack


david baker
jamul, ca
david baker   jamul, ca
Pass time is an excellent crack climb. Start at Capt hook as you climb into the chimney traverse right onto hand crack continue up. At top of crack( groove) Traverse right again onto another crack. Continue up 8 feet and traverse right yet again into another crack that will become a finger crack climb to top rap station at top of climb. May 15, 2006
Visalia, Ca.
usetob   Visalia, Ca.
I see this route is rated just one star however, this turned out to be VERY fun. A good time was had by all... May 2, 2008
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
As David said, Vogel's topo is slightly off at the start. Climb the first 15 feet of Capt Hook and then step right.
The rap at the top is 95 feet, not 130.
Good route! Jun 10, 2008
Lucas Dunn
San Marcos
Lucas Dunn   San Marcos
I can't believe it was rated 5.8 in the old guide books it's a pretty stout nine the crux in insecure more so then the flower Dec 17, 2009
I think this climb is better than the other moderates, Sword of Damocles, Capt. Hook and Frustration, on the Butress. A tricky start gives way to interesting and varied crack climbing... Aug 12, 2010
pick a hot, mid summer, monsoonal moisture day if you want to turn this into a surprisingly hard climb! May 14, 2012
Keith Leaman  
I noticed that this website does edit/correct some information, so for a bit of trivia, after 46 years, Mountain Project may be the only reference that will finally get the FA information on this climb correct. It was Paul (not Phil) Gleason and Lee (not Larry) Harrell and myself, as a team of three that did the FA in 1968. Phil Gleason will verify. I remember the day well ~ later that same day, Pat Callis and Lee (not Larry) Harrell and Paul and I also did Frustration.

edit~ Thanks, MP for the updates. Aug 7, 2014

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