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Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Left Side

Aqualung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcy Farcy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bluebeard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bocomaru T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buccaneer, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Captain Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Exposure T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Double Exposure Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Frustration T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ham Sandwich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hernia - Direct Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hernia, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pass Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pirate, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Swashbuckler T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sword of Damocles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winter Solstice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,214 total · 10/month
Shared By: Bruce Diffenbaugh on Feb 11, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is just to the left of the top of first pitch of Captain Hook and is a cleaner way finish.At the first belay look to the left 1 bolt protects a few face moves(crux) to the Pirate ledge.Rap 80' Or go right to Swashbuckler 5.10d or stright up on Pieces of Eight 5.10d.

Location

Buttress Cracks

Protection

1 bolt med.wire stoppers or small cams.

Photos

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scottydo
ventura, ca
  5.10c
scottydo   ventura, ca
  5.10c
Did this climb and it definitely felt like a 5.10. Although the first part is supposed to be 5.8 it felt a little harder. (it does flare a little bit) I took the upper chimney to the left which I think was off route, but was gnarly and fun. (fun cause i didn't fall) The hardest move on the whole thing was at the bolt. Fun times. Oct 10, 2009

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