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Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Left Side

Aqualung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcy Farcy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bluebeard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bocomaru T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buccaneer, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Captain Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Exposure T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Double Exposure Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Frustration T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ham Sandwich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hernia - Direct Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hernia, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pass Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pirate, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Swashbuckler T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sword of Damocles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winter Solstice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Pat Callis and Lee Harrell, March 1968
Page Views: 1,975 total, 14/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006 with updates
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

There is a crux jam move near the start, a 5.9 move 40 feet up, and and easy chimney above. The quality of the climbing is so-so.

Location

This route follows the second crack system to the right of the Captain Hook chimney.

Protection

Standard rack, 3 bolt anchor

Photos

FYI ~ It was Pat Callis, Lee (not Larry) Harrell who did the FA in 1968. Paul Gleason and I followed as two teams of two. See my comment under Pass Time. Aug 7, 2014
Tradiban
  5.10a
Tradiban  
  5.10a
Just before entering the wide chimney I went left and laybacked the flake on the left, much easier I think but run-out a bit. Mar 25, 2013
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
The crux is stellar but I thought the chimney was awkward and strenuous. Decent climb overall. Jul 25, 2007
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
This route is pretty fun. Mar 25, 2007
Ryan Huetter
Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
Ryan Huetter   Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
Actually, going against what the above route description says, this route is pretty damn fun. You get a little bit of everything from stemming to liebacking to face climbing. Stay left of the wide wormhole chimney- either run it out or lean back in to place gear intermittently.
And there is now a 3 bolt rap station for both this climb and for Pass Time to the left of it. Mar 23, 2007