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Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Left Side

Aqualung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcy Farcy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bluebeard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bocomaru T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buccaneer, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Captain Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Exposure T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Double Exposure Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Frustration T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ham Sandwich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hernia - Direct Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hernia, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pass Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pirate, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Swashbuckler T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sword of Damocles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winter Solstice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Bob Gaines et al., June, 1989
Page Views: 547 total · 4/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a short, exciting face climb. It is on a small formation just below The Pirate. Scramble down and traverse in from the left. Unprotected crux moves lead up to the first bolt. A good spot (tough to arrange on the exposed starting ledge) would help you if you fell here. The moves above are fun and well-protected. The climb finishes along the trail by the base of The Pirate.

Protection

Gear for the belay at the bottom and at the top. I don't remember whether I was able to place any gear on the actual climb.

Photos

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Tradiban  
 
Start is unprotected but I got in some cams for the belayor in the downward facing flake. Used a C4 #2 and a bit nut for the anchor. There's a route that branches left after the first bolt noted an "unfinished" in the G/V book, it's now finished but the crux bolt is still an original button head. Looks like cool crimpy moves to a jug on the lip. Sent yet? 4 days ago
C Miller
CA
  5.10c
C Miller   CA  
  5.10c
Fun face climbing on this; the crux is a boulder problem right at the start, which seem contrary to the "R" rating. Jan 28, 2006

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